Joined
·
1,131 Posts
Having taken delivery of the strut brace from another of Foxy's fabulous groupbuys. I decided to fit it this afternoon.
This guide is intended for information purposes. I will not be held responsible for any injury you sustain, damage to your car or third party should you follow this how to..
Be safe working on your car please! You will be jacking it!
Firstly you will need the following:
Jacking equipment
Pistol Drill
Starting drill bit (you choose size) I used an 8mm bit
10mm drill bit
Centre Punch (I used a HSS Tap because it's tough steel)
Hammer for centre punch
Countersink bit (or deburring tool/file) *important*
8mm Hex key (Allen key)
17mm Spanner (or socket if you can get it to fit!)
and Patience (not shown!)
Firstly offer the brace up to the car and get a snug fit. It may, at this point be wise to remove or trim the engine cover as this will be difficult to remove once the brace is fitted.
Decide the best position for the brace and drill 1 hole on each suspension tower and loosely assemble with a couple of the M10 bolts supplied (do not fit nuts at this point)
Now mark out the remaining holes, pilot drill whilst the brace is positioned if neccessary then remove the brace. If you get it right you will not have to elongate any holes during fitting *so take your time* Mine were fine...
Deburr all holes or your brace will not sit flush with your car and you could get all sorts of bizzare creaking from the mounting positions!!!
Now again loosely assemble the brace with a bolt and washer in all holes. and jack your car up. Now fully fit and torque tighten all bolts and lower back down.
Before
After
Remove all tools and swarf from the engine bay *critical*
Test drive car and re-tighten any bolts. Listen for any creaking or knocking.
Check tighten all bolts at a convenient interval and that should be it!
Early results appear to have stopped tyre squeal and more sure footed through corners!
Time taken approx 1-2 hours depending on your personal skills..
I hope you find this helpful! Enjoy![^]
Seeing as I couldn't torque the bolts up enough I inverted the bolts so I could get a 17mm socket on top and that's sorted it a treat. No rattles at all now.

This guide is intended for information purposes. I will not be held responsible for any injury you sustain, damage to your car or third party should you follow this how to..
Be safe working on your car please! You will be jacking it!
Firstly you will need the following:
Jacking equipment
Pistol Drill
Starting drill bit (you choose size) I used an 8mm bit
10mm drill bit
Centre Punch (I used a HSS Tap because it's tough steel)
Hammer for centre punch
Countersink bit (or deburring tool/file) *important*
8mm Hex key (Allen key)
17mm Spanner (or socket if you can get it to fit!)
and Patience (not shown!)

Firstly offer the brace up to the car and get a snug fit. It may, at this point be wise to remove or trim the engine cover as this will be difficult to remove once the brace is fitted.
Decide the best position for the brace and drill 1 hole on each suspension tower and loosely assemble with a couple of the M10 bolts supplied (do not fit nuts at this point)
Now mark out the remaining holes, pilot drill whilst the brace is positioned if neccessary then remove the brace. If you get it right you will not have to elongate any holes during fitting *so take your time* Mine were fine...

Deburr all holes or your brace will not sit flush with your car and you could get all sorts of bizzare creaking from the mounting positions!!!
Now again loosely assemble the brace with a bolt and washer in all holes. and jack your car up. Now fully fit and torque tighten all bolts and lower back down.
Before

After

Remove all tools and swarf from the engine bay *critical*
Test drive car and re-tighten any bolts. Listen for any creaking or knocking.
Check tighten all bolts at a convenient interval and that should be it!
Early results appear to have stopped tyre squeal and more sure footed through corners!
Time taken approx 1-2 hours depending on your personal skills..
I hope you find this helpful! Enjoy![^]
Seeing as I couldn't torque the bolts up enough I inverted the bolts so I could get a 17mm socket on top and that's sorted it a treat. No rattles at all now.