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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know if there is a how to for fitting shocks and springs. I can't get my hands on a haynes manual between now and thursday which is when I'm planning on doing the job. I'm going to renew the top mounts at the same time.

It looks like it should be an easy enough job for a diy mechanic but is there anything in particular I need to watch out for - greasing any parts, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Quote: posted by marriedblonde on 22/03/2005 13:01:19

Shane,

It's not that big a job to do, I've done quite a few and so long as you have a decent set of tools you'll be fine.

If I get a minute I'll cobble a simple how-to to help you out. Unfortunately there wont be any pics...

J.

Cheers Mate.

Someone posted on here once that some of the bolts are "use once only" type bolts and that I probably need to drop the subframe when changing the front struts. Any chance you know which bolts are the "use once only" ones and is it hard to drop the subframe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Quote: posted by sk4tec on 22/03/2005 12:35:30

U need to be careful with the spring compressors.

I can imagine - I've never used them before but it looks straight forward enough and I assume I just pop them on, tighten until they match the current compression of spring and then very gently loosen
 

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Try this http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=683244

You don't need to drop the sub frame, this how to talks about taking the driveshaft out, it's up to you whether you split the balljoint or do the shaft but I wouldn't touch the sub frame - the front strut comes out as one unit, you then need to split the spring and shock(hence the need for the compressors) - the rears are seperate spring and shock
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Quote: posted by Richard W on 22/03/2005 15:53:30

You don't need to drop the sub frame - the front strut comes out as one unit, you then need to split the spring and shock(hence the need for the compressors) - the rears are seperate spring and shock

That's what I thought but I read a post today which mentioned that you have to drop the subframe to get the clearance required to take the strut out - maybe he got confused between subframe and wishbone.

Any ideas on the "use only once" bolts"?
 

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Definately no need to drop the front sub frame to remove the struts at the front.

Here's a how-to to fit coilovers to a jetta, same principle though! When it says you need a special strut removal tool you can just use a small cold chisel. You'll also need a lump hammer.

J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Quote: posted by marriedblonde on 22/03/2005 16:17:28

ok so I forgot to post the link!!!

Here it is: http://www.nclh.org/car/coilover_howto/

Thanks for this - looks like a good guide. Telling me almost exactly what I need - I reckon once I get the strut out it's just a case of re-fitting the new bilstein struts in reverse cause they're OE parts [:)].

I wonder can I survive without that spreader tool?

I get some outer top nuts with the new struts but I suppose I should try order some lower mounting bolts and rear upper mounting bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Quote: posted by GreenBeast on 22/03/2005 18:07:10

get all the bolts, they won't cost a lot but you don't wanna get right into the job and need them

also get the tool...please get the tool. it isn't a nice job without it

I'll go get all the bolts tomorrow from a VW/BMW/Audi specialist motor factors - question is where can I get this spreader tool?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Quote: posted by blazedoobie on 23/03/2005 11:22:40

youll need a 21mm deep reach ring spanner with a decent depth to the reach too.

I think I'll hire out an impact gun for the strut top nuts
 

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Quote: posted by blazedoobie on 23/03/2005 11:22:40

youll need a 21mm deep reach ring spanner with a decent depth to the reach too.

You can actually use a 14mm sparck plug socket, this will allow you to fit a 22mm spanner on the end and get a 7mm allan key in through the hole.

J.
 
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