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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was only fitting pads but to fit the disc you just need to remove one screw when the caliper is off (with the carrier removed also).

1.First up, safety first. Never work under your car without an axel stand. I put the stand just below the main frame rails (the sills are too soft, even the reinforced parts) and I jack up on the subframe bolt area. I lower the jack slightly so the axel stand is taking most of the weight but the jack is still there as a backup. I would never attempt any part of this using the standard jack, not even to lift the car to put the axel stand in position. Its also advisable to open the bonnet at this this point too.

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2.Next you need to remove the two securing dowel screws at the rear of the caliper. They require a HEX 7 socket (pictured below).

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3.Now remove the securing clip to the front of the caliper, a screwdriver in each side like I've shown should work fine.

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4.Now the caliper is free!! It may require a little persuasion to come away from the disc if they have a bit of a lip on them. Mine did so out came the rubber mallet!

5.Now go under the bonnet and locate the brake fluid reservoir. In my 1.8T it was at the rear of the engine just right of the coolant tank.

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6.You need to do this to wind the pistons back and remove fluid if neccessary. If your hard as nails like me you can carefully siphon out any fluid that is going to become overspill or you can use a syringe. As you are winding back the piston you need to keep an eye on this though, any overspill will kill paintwork.

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7.That was my weapon of choice for winding back the pistons, a plumbers wrench wasn't wide enough. So I had a scan about in my pops shed and came out with that contraption. It worked like a dream. The pistons will wind back until you feel a sharp bit of resistance. Once the piston has been winded back close the brake fluid reservoir.

8.Next up remove the old pad from the carrier, clean off any corrosion on the carrier so the new pad can move a bit more freely. A screwdriver and hammer did the trick for me. Fit the new pad and remove the adhesive backing. Its worth noting these are the same either side whereas the inner pad is not!

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9.The inner brake pads have a mad contraption on the rear of them, When you take out the old pads you'll realise this goes inside the caliper piston to hold it in place. The other thing you need to know is that the arrow must be pointing DOWN when they are fitted otherwise you've put them on the wrong side.

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10.Almost there! Refit the caliper to the carrier and screw up the dowel screws till almost tight. Next bring out the torque wrench.

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Set it to 21 ft lb / 28Nm and tighten both screws until the wrench stops.

11.Next refit the securing clip.

12.Check your work is complete.

13. Refit wheels.

14. Push the brakes a few times while stationary to get the pads into position.

Job done and be glad you didn't pay a dealer anything from ?40-90 labour! If you are fitting discs too you just need to undo the securing screw when the caliper is off/the pads are out and remove the caliper carrier.

Hopefully this has shown anyone in doubt how simple it is.
 

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Good write up , hopefully lots of people will follow it.

You may want to add a few things about where to grease lightly and cleaning up + greasing wheel hub. Torque wheel bolts + Always wear Protective Boots and latex gloves [:p]

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good write up , hopefully lots of people will follow it.

You may want to add a few things about where to grease lightly and cleaning up + greasing wheel hub. Torque wheel bolts + Always wear Protective Boots and latex gloves [:p]





I would do all those things if I wasn't selling the car next week [:p]
 

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Good write up , hopefully lots of people will follow it.

You may want to add a few things about where to grease lightly and cleaning up + greasing wheel hub. Torque wheel bolts + Always wear Protective Boots and latex gloves [:p]





i know this old but where should I grease?

matt
 

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Great write up !

I have been searching round the forum but cannot find a how to for the rear brakes. I have done the fronts but cannot get the 8mm hex bolt out of the rears and I am scared of shearing it off.

This is the first thing I have attempted on the rears so I dont know if the reason I cannot undo them is because the handbrake cable has not been unclipped.

any help appreciated
 

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Your discs look like they need replacing too mate. The amount of burring on the outer edge of the disc is quite apparent showing a lot of wear. Seems pontless then having to bed the pads into another disc once again
 

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Your discs look like they need replacing too mate. The amount of burring on the outer edge of the disc is quite apparent showing a lot of wear. Seems pontless then having to bed the pads into another disc once again
lim, look at the dates [:DD]

Good DIY, altho i get kinda lost when he talks about brake fluid.

Gilly
 

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is it normal when you fit new pads and disks that the brakes feel really spongy?? will it go away? ive done everything as you've told me, and had my work looked over by a mechanic but they are spongy. the mecahnic says it'll go away, but i want to know what you guys think! cheers all
 

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Slightly different to get the rears off. They had me stumped until I watched a mechanic do them. I tried to get the cap head bolt out and all he did was release the caliper with two spanners. You will definitely need the tool to retract the piston though.
 

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Your discs look like they need replacing too mate. The amount of burring on the outer edge of the disc is quite apparent showing a lot of wear. Seems pontless then having to bed the pads into another disc once again
Agreed - pointless waste of time not doing the discs the same time. Good pics though.

By the way - you don't have to take the carriers of the smaller discs - do you have to on the bigger one's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Your discs look like they need replacing too mate. The amount of burring on the outer edge of the disc is quite apparent showing a lot of wear. Seems pontless then having to bed the pads into another disc once again
Agreed - pointless waste of time not doing the discs the same time. Good pics though.

By the way - you don't have to take the carriers of the smaller discs - do you have to on the bigger one's?
Come on son, read the thread fully. I said the car was being sold the week after, I just banged on some pads as the brakes were a bit schitty and the lad had a long drive back to london.

They were 312mm TT discs though.
 

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I'm planning to maybe do my front brakes in a couple weeks and change them to the 312mm discs.

Has anyone got any tips on how to remove that retaining screw as mine is pretty hard to undo, and it's already started to round off. Also where can I get a replacement screw?

Oh and how do I push the pistons back in can I use a long nose pliers?
 
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I'm planning to maybe do my front brakes in a couple weeks and change them to the 312mm discs.

Has anyone got any tips on how to remove that retaining screw as mine is pretty hard to undo, and it's already started to round off. Also where can I get a replacement screw?

Oh and how do I push the pistons back in can I use a long nose pliers?
The hubs i got had 288mm discs on them and the screw was rusted solid. I even broke a screw driver trying to undo it. (sorry diggy LOL)

I drilled the top of the screw out. Then the disc came off. I got a set of mole grips then twisted the remaining bit of the screw out. [y].

I had a set of taps to hand so i ran them through just to clean the inside of the thread.

Screws can be had a vw for pennys. N 106 483 01 and is about 18p per screw.
 

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I'm planning to maybe do my front brakes in a couple weeks and change them to the 312mm discs.

Has anyone got any tips on how to remove that retaining screw as mine is pretty hard to undo, and it's already started to round off. Also where can I get a replacement screw?

Oh and how do I push the pistons back in can I use a long nose pliers?
The hubs i got had 288mm discs on them and the screw was rusted solid. I even broke a screw driver trying to undo it. (sorry diggy LOL)

I drilled the top of the screw out. Then the disc came off. I got a set of mole grips then twisted the remaining bit of the screw out.
.

I had a set of taps to hand so i ran them through just to clean the inside of the thread.

Screws can be had a vw for pennys. N 106 483 01 and is about 18p per screw.
Thanks for that mate, this is what I feared when I realised how difficult the screw was to remove.
 
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