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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys ,

Just a quick question about the fitting of aftermarket headunits.

Got a Gti with the standard radio and single in dash CD player.

Since going down the road of the R32 trim I feel the stereo looks a bit out of place.

So decided to fit my Sony CDXM-8800 headunit.

The question is can I replace the standard in dash CD player with a cubby?

Does the cubby have to be above the headunit or can I swap them over?

ie have the headunit above the cubby?

What adaptors(Autoleads?) do I need(if any) to fit this unit to the standard VW loom?

Thanks in advance .
 

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Ok this is fun. VW power is not strong enough to run an aftermarket head unit. You need to run a new SWITCH POWER wire from the fuse box to the stereo. This wire should come in a kit. Check out www.crutchfield.com for the wire harness that plugs into the existing car harness. Then all you have to do is connect the stereo leads to the adapter. Space is EXTREMLY limited in there so small is GOOD. You will also need a antenna adapter seprate, the only place that I found one is A1 motorsports in cambridge. I forgot the name of the brand. You will need the amp antenna kit. You connect the antenna wire to the blue wire from the stereo. if you have monsoon, no other mods are needed to make that work. Real nice with that, it's plug and play.

You can swap those 2 spots all day long. They are not set in stone. I think that I set you up for all the info. Where are youi located at? I can install it if you do not feel comfortable. I did my entire stereo system myself.

Links:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120709003

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120709003

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120988999
 

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Ok this is fun. VW power is not strong enough to run an aftermarket head unit. You need to run a new SWITCH POWER wire from the fuse box to the stereo. This wire should come in a kit. Check out www.crutchfield.com for the wire harness that plugs into the existing car harness. Then all you have to do is connect the stereo leads to the adapter. Space is EXTREMLY limited in there so small is GOOD. You will also need a antenna adapter seprate, the only place that I found one is A1 motorsports in cambridge. I forgot the name of the brand. You will need the amp antenna kit. You connect the antenna wire to the blue wire from the stereo. if you have monsoon, no other mods are needed to make that work. Real nice with that, it's plug and play.

You can swap those 2 spots all day long. They are not set in stone. I think that I set you up for all the info. Where are youi located at? I can install it if you do not feel comfortable. I did my entire stereo system myself.

Links:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120709003

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120709003

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YZOQ34RWFoy/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120988999
I'm sorry but I have to disagree with everything you say in the first paragraph,the yellow/red switched live wire in a Mk.4 Golf is more than adequate to run any aftermarket head unit ever made,as this serves the same function as the remote turn on wire on an amplifier,it only needs to supply a small amount of current to switch the head unit on,typically less than one amp.The permanent live (yellow in the head units loom) is the one that needs the heavier current supply,which can be connected to both of the thick red/whites in the cars ISO loom,these can supply enough current to run any concievable head unit as there is only a certain amount of power you can get from a 12 volt unit without a switching power supply,which no head unit I know of has.

I've yet to find a German car that has electrics that aren't up to the job of keeping up with any half decent audio system.
 

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Cool, OK let me rephrase that. VW does not want people to modify there stereo because they think they had it right the first time. You WILL NOT find a switched power to the stereo in the stock wire loom. The way that they are designed is that whole key thing (radio turns on and off with the ingnition switch). When you buy the kit and look at the instructions you will see what I am talking about. There is an extra wire supplied that needs to go in to the fuse panel for switched power. You are right too. The constant power is the yellow and needs to be hooked up to a constant power source to save your settings and supply 95% of the power. The switched does supply power and tuns the radio on. The Blue wire is what you are talking about. That supplys a 12v (.5 amp) to the amp to turn that on. The switched power is a red wire.

PS when I talk about wire color it is not the VW loom, but the new stereo loom.

And I own a German car that will not tolerate any high power loads. it's called a 6v 1966 Beetle
 

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This forum is to do with ICE (In Car Entertainment) in the Golf Mk.4 model that was sold from 1998 to 2004 in this country.I see you're at RAF Lakenheath,and I'm assuming that this base is still USAF occupied,and that you are American?I ask this because I'm assumimg you base your information on US spec cars which I have no experience with,although I'd imagine that they'd still use ISOs as the Germans did invent the ISO standards.
I've been fitting car stereos for over 15 years now,and in that time I'd guess I've fitted stereos to very roughly 100 ish Mk.4 Golfs,all of these were UK spec cars and every single one of them had the yellow/red wire in the ISO block ON THE END OF THE STOCK LOOM that gave a switched live on the key,which when you put the key in,it gives nothing.Turn it to the first position,and it goes live,which is how it stays when you turn it to any other position,and even when back to the insertion position,only switching off when you take the key out.

The Mk.5 Golfs (2004 onwards in this country)do not have a switched live in the stock loom as they use a digital CAN-BUS signal to switch them on and off.

And if VW didn't want you to modify the stereo,they wouldn't have made it standard DIN size,the same size as ALL aftermarket stereos.(Apart from double DIN of course that also fit).

The photos below show the wires that occupy the power ISO block in every UK spec Mk.4 Golf.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So now you two have got that off your chestSSS

Do I just take the old unit out and plug the new one in,or do I need an autoleads type loom and

an aerial amplifier????

Back on topic would be good lol[:D]
 

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You will probably need to swap the perm live and the switched live. Some headunits let you do this in the headunit loom using butt connector things. You will also probably need the aerial amplifier unless you only want to listen to classic fm.

Chris
 

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Sorry for going slightly off topic,all you need to do if you don't want to,or can't buy the adaptor loom,is cut off and tape up permanent live no.2,and swap the reds and yellows over in your head units loom so red>yellow,and yellow>red,and there is 100% definately a switched live on the yellow/red wire in the cars ISO loom.
 

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Does this mean when you fit an aftermarket head unit the steering wheel controls and dashboard display will work properly. Sorry if Im dull
 

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Does this mean when you fit an aftermarket head unit the steering wheel controls and dashboard display will work properly. Sorry if Im dull
depending on what controls you have and which aftermarket head unit, you can for some buy a unit that will connect between the steering controls and stereo. the display will just have a blank part.

back to main topic, as all has been said, all i did was fit an extra ISO loom onto the VW one and swap red to yellow, yellow to red and voila, switched live = stereo switches off upon removal of key and stereo remembers everything too [:)]

jammy
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Fitted the new head unit yesterday and what a difference!!!!!!!

Thanks to all who have advised re wiring etc,in the end it turned out really straightforward.

Sony headunit wiring loom gave the options to allow you to change the red/yellow wires round.

Easy.[:D]

So now its in and sounding good.Thanks again.[;)][:D]
 

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just reading through this, I'm in a similar position. Ive currently got the standard stereo and the cd player above it. I'm going to be fitting a single DIN head unit, so any ideas whats best to put in the slot above it? Does any one know of a website where i can get a cubby that will fit in ok?

Cheers !
 

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Autoleads make a cubby to fit in any single DIN space but I bought one the other day and it doesn't sit flush to the dash - infact it sticks out by 3-4mm and looks awefull. I'm in the process of ordering a genuine VW part from my local dealer, similar to one which I had in my 02 Bora SE when the single slot CD was an optional extra. As you would expect, they fit perfectly but as yet I have no idea of price. If I remember correctly, the genuine cubby's do have to sit above the head unit slot (so you can't switch the two around) and you do need to remove the head unit to fit them properly.

Hope this helps.
 

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You can fit a top cubby hole at the bottom by turning it upside down,but this of course means the ventilation slots will now be at the bottom,and all your small change will fall through.

Chris.
 

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That was the problem I had in my old Bora so I had to switch them back. I've just had a quote through from my local VW dealer - £27 inc. VAT for the genuine cubby. I imagine it would probably cost a couple of quid at a decent scrappy if you can track the part down.

Cheers
 

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Cheers for the help, very useful.

I think I'll head down to the breakers yard and see if I can get my hands on the proper VW one.
 

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Rang around a few scrappies and managed to get one for £12.50 inc postage, which i thought was a pretty good price!

If anyone wants the number pm me.
 

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U can also mod up a 6N polo (51 onwards) cubby to fit like I have done, they have ruberised anti slip liners rather than the bora/golf kind of furry type. depending whether u like radio at top or bottom u have to trim the locating lugs on the sides but it still stays still if u add a little felt tape.

off topic slightly..... does anyone else have trouble making cages fit properly in the din hole? my alpine one moves as there isn;t sufficient lip on the sides for the cage tabs to be bent into?
 

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Hi,

installed my pioneer head unit and having the same problem with the cage, theres nowhere to bend the tabs in to properly, so it could slide out pretty easily [:S]
 

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I had the same problem with my Pioneer head unit. It used to rattle like crazy because the cage didn't grip properly. I spent a few hours swearing at it one afternoon and finally got it to stay, but I think the problem is that there isn't enough space behind the head unit for the extra wiring and the signal booster module (if you have one) that you need for an upgraded system, so the head unit is pushed out of the dash. If the head unit is secure in the cage, the cage is pushed out too. I kept pulling the head unit out a little and squeezing my hand behind it to push as many wires as I could out of its way. Eventually the head unit and cage both stayed in place and the rattling is practically gone.

Hope this helps.
 
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