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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Could anyone tell me where I can get a fast road clutch installed, and how much I am looking at please?

Basically now I have the car APR'd, the extra power is not being felt fully as the clutch is slipping (Richard if you read this, that must be what was causing the rev counter upset)

I never knew it was happening until the extra power is now going through. The clutch has been stinking for a while especially after pushing the car a little.
 

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Hi,

I have the same problem (started slipping since chip - hoping

it's slippage and not contamination!!!)

Got a good quote from stealthreacing:

250+VAT for a Helix motorsport clutch

150+VAT to fit (i.e cheap)

So, about 500 all in.

Stealth have a good rep too.

HTH

Jon
 

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quote:

Originally posted by mk4 Turbo

Thanks for the reply guys.

What do you mean by contamination Bigjon? As in oil on the clutch?

How much would I be looking for a clutch from VW just the standard one?
Yeah, blown oil seal...

VW in Camberley quoted me £200 parts + £300 labour all

+ VAT. I couldn't stop myself laughing in their faces....

TSR Performance offered 200+vat for a Black Diamond clutch

and £180+vat to fit. I think I will be going for the Stealth

racing one though
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
[:O] that's a ridiculous price. My car is still under warranty but only until the beginning of April. I guess the clutch isn't covered though, as it's going to be wear and tear.

If it's going to cost that much, I guess i will go with what you're doing and have the same clutch.
 

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quote:

Originally posted by mk4 Turbo

quote:

Originally posted by mk4 Turbo

It died today [:(] so I have had to get the job done at the stealer now [:(] no helix clutch for me for a while.

Meant to ask, will the standard clutch be ok with the remap now?
Can anyone answer the above question please?
Hmm, well mine started slipping about 3 weeks after being chipped.

Give AMD a call and see what they think about the stock clutch...
 

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If you do drive the car very hard from standstill then you are best off ditching the normal 1.8T dual mass flywheel and clutch, as they seem to be having problems even on standard cars.

The best way to sort it is to just stick on a normal 228mm flywheel and clutch off a Mk2 G60 or Mk3 VR6.

If you do this you also have a much bigger range of performance clutches to choose from, and arent as expensive.

You can also get some nice lightweight ally flywheels in this size, but may not be very practical for road use!
 

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quote:

Originally posted by Enzo

If you do drive the car very hard from standstill then you are best off ditching the normal 1.8T dual mass flywheel and clutch, as they seem to be having problems even on standard cars.

The best way to sort it is to just stick on a normal 228mm flywheel and clutch off a Mk2 G60 or Mk3 VR6.

If you do this you also have a much bigger range of performance clutches to choose from, and arent as expensive.

You can also get some nice lightweight ally flywheels in this size, but may not be very practical for road use!
IF you do this I think you need the G60 flywheel. Don't think

the VR6 one has the right bolt pattern??
 

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I suggest you talk to Chris at Stealth Motorsport Engineering in Weston-super-Mare 01934 823355, as he has been working on my Mk4 for the past couple of weeks and had to order a TT Clutch kit from VW, as they now recognise that their is a problem with the original and are upgrading them when they fail with the Audi bitz!

Premature clutch failure is a known problem on the Mk4, apparently!
 

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I run a Helix VR6 clutch setup in my 20VT motor..

02J 5 spd g'box.

To enable this change I had to junk the dual mass flywheel assembly and get a new flywheel. G60 or ABF 16v are fine. I went for an ABF 16v flywheel, which I had lightened and balanced.

VR6 Helix cover plate and centre plate in 228mm size were mated this.

you need to use the ABF flywheels bolts (new ones).

Works fine for me, although when launched is smells "orrid". It puts up with its power and track abuse ok.... Stock clutch slipped at 12K miles only. This ones been ever since and I'm on 27K now.

Autotech in the USA also list this kind of conversion for 1.8T cars.

regards

Bill
 

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Hi,

I have a notchy gearshift when cold and sometimes when warm. I went to VW asking them to check out the box, for my MkIII had a syncro prob, so did a friend with a MkII. They said it is my clutch that is busy getting worn out. I feel no slipage on the clutch though... I got a preliminary quote on a new clutch and labour... get this...

A new clutch assy. R6100 (at R12/£ = £500) Labour would be R2000 (£166). This brings us to roughly £666. [:O] The actual question... Can you replace only the clutch without the flywheel? Does anyone have a component layout of a Mk4 1.8T Clutch?

I saw the posts of the other clutch kits... which is the best though?

Thanx
 

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Hi,

My clutch now only bites when the pedal is almost fully extended (as-in the position when you aren't depressing it!) Does that mean my clutch is on it's way out or is it simply the clutch cable that needs re-adjusting?

It's a 2001 115 GTI.. so I guess it's cable, not DBW.

- Toff.
 

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Sorry, forgot to ask..

I drove my mates Audi 1.8T quattro (chipped to 230bhp) which was very quick indeed.. he had a lightend flywheel and the car seemed to loose a lot of momentum when changing gears, even on a really quick change..

Is that because his flywheel is too light or is this the characterisitc that people actually want [?] Is the general benefit of fitting a lightend flywheel that you reduce the inertia from standing starts etc? I'd appreciate your advice.

Cheers - Toff.
 
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