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i added the same dump valve to my AGU yesterday. No probs at all. although i too was expecting a whhhhhhssstttt, rather than a tshh!

but when booting it through the gears it is a big longer.
 

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Keamo

You need to check the vacuum hose that is connected to the dv as is sounds like it has broken somewhere along the line.

There are 2 lengths of soft braided rubber hose that over time with engine heat get brittle and break, but because

of the braiding the breaks in the hose will not be visible to the eye.

The first length of hose runs from the bottom right of the inlet
manifold at the front of the engine and into a metal length of pipe
that

runs along the right of the engine block and to the back of the
engine.The second length runs from this metal pipe to the location of
the original DV.

It is this pipe at the back that usually breaks.Your best bet is to go
to your local car accessory shop and buy a length of vacuum hose and
replace

any that are broken.Shouldnt cost more than a few quid.

Good Luck.
 

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If you have checked your hoses already and its still the same its probably gonna be the dump valve thats fubar'd.

Does anyone you know have another valve you can try for a bit.Where abouts are you based.Someone on here may be local.

Mo
 

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what sizw T piece do you have to use? and can you just leave the original diverter valve on or do you HAVE to blank it all off?
 

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Hey,

Are you sure they've sent you the correct dump valve? I say this, as I was sent one from Demon Tweeks years ago. Packaging was all correct etc, but it did the same as you're describing.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, Bailey had miss-packaged a few Dump Valves, and they were going out in wrong packaging. Got the correct one a few days later, and all was well........

HTH

Steve
 

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my mate has just got a 1.8T and wants to do this so im gona help him and laugh lol but he needs the blanking plugs where can he get them from?
 

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sounds like you have the wrong sort of valve you need a recirc DV on these engines otherwise they tend to confuse the engines sensors and throw it into limp mode.your better off buying something like a FORGE 007p diverter valve rather than a dump valve as the dump valves are nothing but hassle
 

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yeh mate iv got the forge 007 valve on mine. but him going from a corsa to a car with a turbo and being a prat lol he wants to try and do it. iv told him a few people have done it and some go titss up. but he wont have it. lol
 

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Whooshy Dump Valves rarely work on 1.8T's especially when remapped.

I'd stick to the Re-Circ variety.

And if the dump valve you have doesn't have the correct spring (tension wise) then it will also not work properly as it won't be fully shut / open when the ECU thinks it is.

When ECU gets confused it'll put you into limp mode and run like a bag of poo.
 

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Whooshy Dump Valves rarely work on 1.8T's especially when remapped.

I'd stick to the Re-Circ variety.

When ECU gets confused it'll put you into limp mode and run like a bag of poo.
Incorrect... mine worked perfect with a dump valve... never had a problem with it fitted for 4 years. The car also ran a greater BHP then cars with the Re-Circ variety

Posted Image
 

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rsgolf isnt that dump valve the wrong way round? with the recirc the piston entance would be on the other way round.

plus my mate hes on about putting it by the throttle or something....
 

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RS GOLF isnt that dump valve the wrong way round?

with the recirc the piston entance would be on the other way round.
No it's not the wrong way round. If it was the other way round it would be venting the intake and the MAF.
 

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I did say "rarely" works Kev [;)] and your's is not a complete 100% whooshy dumper anyway (looks like a GFB or Turbosmart Recirc/Atmos dumper instead) so it would recirc most of the time and only vent when on full boost (depending on how you've set it up of course)

That at least would give you less or no problems compare to a 100% atmos dumper like the Bailey DV26.

It's a well known fact the 1.8T ECU's do not like 100% Atmos dumpers.
 

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looks like a GFB or Turbosmart Recirc/Atmos dumper instead) so it would recirc most of the time and only vent when on full boost (depending on how you've set it up of course)

It's a well known fact the 1.8T ECU's do not like 100% Atmos dumpers.
If you are referring to 100% DV then you are correct, but the ECU's are more than happy to work with dump valves, as long as you buy the correct one.

Mine was a GFB (Hybrid DV) which works on a 50/50 split. I know quite a few people that have this Dump Valve and it works fine on the VAG 1.8T engines.

The older VAG 1.8T engines will work with the 100% Atmos DV, with out probs
 

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ok what would happen if he was to fit it close to the throttle bodie? also i think his is an AGU anyway

rs golf- the piston on ur DV looks like it will get pressure from the small left hand pipe then recirc to the intake pipe? (am i right) my forge recirc is fitted so the pistom will get pressure from the intake then recirc the the smaller pipe. im confused now..please help lol.is my DV on the wrong way :(
 

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For a whooshy dumper, it must be fitted post turbo (charged side) as opposed to pre turbo where its not charged (not pressurised)

It doesn't matter really if its close to the TB (like the first pic) or like Kev has (running off a pipe post turbo) as long as its after the turbo.

A recirc however can be fitted both ways as the vacuum pipe combined with the spring tension inside the dumper determines when the whole system is recirculating air or not.
 
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