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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm removing the passenger side driveshaft on V6 Bora, on my way to replacing the clutch. I'm using this guide & Bentley manual.

I've undone the spline bolts and the triple grip as shown in photo, but can't pull the drive shaft out. I can wobble it a bit but doesn't pull out.

Is there something I still need to undo?

20210515_clutch1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
His instructions don't mention hub nut:

16. Disconnect lower ball joints (three 16mm nuts)

17. Remove the 6 axle bolts on each side and pull axles out of the way. To do this you will need a 12 point 12mm socket.

18. Remove three 13mm bolts from shield on passenger side around axle Sorry No Pics.

19. Remove four 16mm bolts connecting transfer case to transmission Be patient. These can take some time and be a pain but they all are accessible
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Turns out you just pull on the rotor and drive shaft comes away from gearbox. Didn't think of it last night.
 

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if you are replacing the clutch, the drive shafts will be in the way of you getting the box out... remove the hub nut, pull the drive shafts out... enjoy the extra space, you will need it... the only people that don't remove them are the ones that have access to a bridge and a gearbox support. thingamabob...

just saying you will need that extra space... so best to pull them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I need both drive shafts out? I will soon have access to a transmission jack and am following the instructions from R32 where he just disconnected both driveshafts. I'm taking it slow. He has one jack under oil pan and other under transmission.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I've assembled the transmission support for my new low profile trolley jack. Hopefully tomorrow will get to the transfer case and gearbox. Bentley states to not undo the hub nut if car is on jack stands as it may topple. So once everything is out and I don't have access will reconnect drive shafts, attach wheels, lower the car and then undo. Guess this is why first time around it takes so long.

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mate if you would've read the instructions completely before tackling the job you would've removed them already... but you can just undo them on the axle stands... just use a breaker bar to free the nut, I use a thick flat iron bar, that fits into the vents on the brake disks, to lock the brake disk on the calliper, than it's breaker bar and crack the nut off, than i just use a normal 1/2" ratchet to get the nut off... go to the other side and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Northpole, thanks. Not a matter of not reading, just not appreciating the subtleties as I've never done anything like this before. Only done rotors & pads and struts & springs. Also I'm getting confused as to what steps are mandatory and which steps make the process easier. Bentley manual doesn't mention removing driveshaft and flange.

For example, disconnecting the hose to the slave cylinder resulted in brake fluid all over the place. Not something I could control with tape as I thought I could do from the instructions.

Hoping to continue to do more on Sunday.

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i'll give you a tip of all tips... i take off the rubber that seals the bleed nipple from the slave cylinder or one from a calliper (because as long as the nipple is closed it won't leak oil out) and push that on the end off the slavecylinders oil pipe = no more leaks... it's just one of these things if you know, you know... if you don't than yes you'll have oil everywhere... But you are right it's one of these learning curves if it's the first time you do it. but lifting the pipe up higher than the reservoir should stop it from leaking brake-fluid all over the place... and i hope you've washed that all off as it does eat it's way through painted surfaces really quick.
 

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Big job to do if you're not sure what your doing. I did dmf in mine. Dropped full front subframe made it a piece of cake getting gearbox out. Lot of work but suspension was getting full overhaul at the same time.
 

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I'd be inclined to grab a rattle gun as a treat to yourself for the project too - something like the Makita DTW700 to help with things like your hub nuts and flywheel bolts. Rooting for you here, every project's a learning curve - although you do tend to acquire the knowledge just after you needed it :)
 

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+1 on the rattle gun (impact gun) or get yourself at least a long reach breaker bar... that way you can tackle all the jobs regardless of a bolt/nut being on so tight you are struggling to crack it free.
 
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