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Diesel isn't a dirty word
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As Fox'ys famous web site is no longer available here is his CC install guide:

Retro-fit compatability guide

This section covers all the work on the new stalk switch.

It all starts by getting the steering wheel off !

1) Removing the airbag and wheel.

DANGER! The steering wheel contains an air-bag module. Seek the guidance of specialists if you are unsure about handling this device!! Do not sit in front of the

airbag whilst removing, nor let anyone else sit inside the car.

Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees from the 'straight ahead' position.

Using a mirror if required, look at the back of the steering wheel hub; the bit now facing the speedo binnacle area.

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Insert a long, small screwdriver (flat), and you'll now have to lever open one of the retaining springs. (It's easier to see what you're levering, by looking at the

inside view below)

By levering upwards on the screwdriver handle, the tip will go downwards and the spring will open, allowing the airbag module retaining peg to be released.

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Rotate the steering wheel back through 180 degrees, and repeat this process on the second and final securing spring.

Carefully, now remove the airbag module far enough to un-clip the firing line wire (5cm or so)

Lay the airbag module somewhere it won't get knocked or dropped (like on the back seat of the car). It can 'fire' if dropped, or be made inert.

Return the wheel to 'straight ahead'. Using the M12 spline drive, and whilst holding the wheel tightly (not against the steering lock), turn the centre fixing bolt

out, anti-clockwise.

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Now look at the bolt seat area on the top of the steering column - there should already be an alignment mark - if not, be sure to punch one. (the splines are very

fine, so be accurate with marking)

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The wheel can be removed by pulling gently towards you. Note the location of the contact ring/indicator cancelling device wheel engagement peg, and remove this item

by unclipping.

Remove the plastic shrouding around the steering column by un-screwing the small philips-head securing screws in the deep recesses and the large exposed torx bolt

under the ignition switch.

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2) Removing and Replacing the Stalk Switch

The stalks are both mounted onto the column as a unit, and need to be removed together.

Slide out the steering column adjustment to give better access here if required.

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Slacken the unit mounting clamp bolt (black torx head on the shiny metal clamp in RH pic). Withdraw the stalk unit, and when accessible, unclip the loom plugs on both

sides. The entire unit can be moved now and be split-down.

Insert a small flat-blade as shown, lever the clip, and slide the two halves apart.

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http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h208/old_n07/FAQS/Cruise/Stalk/cruise_stalk_11.jpg

Retain the wiper stalk half, and slide-in the new cruise-control stalk to replace the original, until it 'clicks' securely home. Get the new wiring loom, and insert

the 10-way black plug at one end, into the socket on the back of the new CC stalk unit.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h208/old_n07/FAQS/Cruise/Stalk/cruise_stalk_12.jpg http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h208/old_n07/FAQS/Cruise/Stalk/cruise_stalk_13.jpg

Re-assemble the stalk assembly back onto the column, plugging the two main loom connectors in reverse order of removal.

Carefully thread the new loom wiring alongside the other wiring, down beside the steering column and push the 'loose end' and the slack wire into the 'behind dash'

area, ready for the next stage.

Clamp-up the stalk switch unit to the column shaft with the torx driver.

Re-fit the column plastic shrouding.

Refit the indicator cancelling unit.

Carefully re-align and refit the steering wheel, noting the alignment marks.

The wheel fixing bolt can apparently be removed/refitted up to five times before needing replacement.

Carefully offer the airbag module up to the wheel, refit the firing line wire, and re-clip the module pegs back into the spring fixings.

Test everything disturbed to ensure it's all safe.

END OF STAGE 1.
 

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Diesel isn't a dirty word
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11,031 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
This section covers all the work outside the car.

1) Removing the scuttle panel.

Open the bonnet fully, and get a good look at the gear below the windscreen. The black plastic running

the entire width of the car must be removed.

Not too tricky, but there's a trick to every step!

With the wipers at natural rest position, use a small piece of electrical tape stuck to the screen each

side to mark the position (beleive me, it's invaluable).

Prize off the caps covering the wiper arm securing nuts. It's a 13mm socket you'll need to remove the

nuts.

The arms are secured onto splined shafts, having a tapered shoulder, so they do 'set' very tight.

At this point, I closed the bonnet, lifted a wiper arm, and wiggled towards and away from the screen

until it freed. Remove both arms and set aside, remembering which is which side.

Now remove the rubber seal at the junction of the bulkhead and the plastic scuttle.

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The plastic scuttle is next. This is securely clipped into the lower edge trim of the windscreen.

To remove, first get your finger under the top edge, and work your way along, releasing it (in the

direction perpendicular to the screen). Carefully ease it out of position, over the wiper arm shafts and

set it aside.

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Looking at the open space now, you can see the cabin air filter to the right side, the ECU in the

centre, and wiper mechanism to the left.

2) Removing the wiper mechanism.

The wiper mechanism obstructs the cable socket box cover, so this has to be removed.

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This is fixed in place with three bolts, 10mm size. Undo all these and remove, then unplug the wiper

motor cable.

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Carefully manouvre the wiper mechanism out of the space and set aside. This will give complete access

to the cable socket box cover.

3) Accessing the cable socket box.

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Now remove the two pressed nuts holding the cover of the cable socket box - these are 10mm.

Slide the cover to one side and unplug all the sockets. The only socket involved in this project is the

black one.

If you can get to this from the inside as well, then unclip and drop the socket back in behind the dash,

ready for the 'inside' work.

Otherwise, carefully lever the clips beside the black socket carrier and slide it along out of it's

retaining slots, so it can be lifted out and the black socket accessed from 'outside' (this is what I

did).

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You now need to carry out the operations 'inside' the car to go on further.

END OF STAGE 2.
 

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Diesel isn't a dirty word
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This setion covers all the work inside the car...

plus the bit in-between !!

1) Removing the dash plastics.

This is the bit which involved dis-assembling the lower part of the dashboard above the drivers footwell.

It's not a big job, so get a soft pad to kneel on, and your torch handy.

The under-tray to the dash (above the pedals) is secured with seven T20 torx screws.

Carefully pull the panel out and set aside.

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The fuse box is located to the right end of the dash - open the cover and carefully un-clip. The end surround, closing off the dash can also be un-clipped and all set

aside.

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The curved plastic panel below the steering column area can now be removed. Unclip and set aside.

The panel behind this can now be taken out by removing the T20 screws around the outer edges. Set aside once again.

You should now have clear access into the under-dash areas on the driver's side.

2) Removing the fuse box.

The fuse box must be removed from it's location by undoing two torx bolts.

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Slide the fuse box down to gain good access to it, and un-clip the back cover. Careful! as there are some fuses powered-up when the ignition is off. Stray metal

objects could short-out!

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Looking at the back of the fuse box, you will see the purple (magenta) plastic grid, which securely keeps all the terminals in place.

3) Working on the fuse box

You will need to lever this into it's 'release' position with a screwdriver - it should 'click' into position.

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Locate fuse number 5. It is a mini-blade type, and should be 7.5A rated.

Now, you need to carefully un-hook the black/blue striped wired leading to the terminal on the 'dead' side of this fuse.

I used an un-wound paper clip of the large variety, and slid the end of the clip wire up beside the terminal, from the front.

The idea is to try and push the 'barbed' hooks (two) on both sides of the terminal, so you can pull it out.

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With this terminal now removed, splay out the hooks if they were pushed back, and insert the terminal into the loose plastic clip that came with the Cruise Control

wiring loom. (Part# 191972701).

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Now click the plug on the end of the loom (Part# 191972711) into this plug behind the fuse box.

Insert the short black/blue cable of the new loom into the now spare fuse 5 chamber. Re-click the purple grid into it's original position on the back of the fuse box.

Re-assemble the fuse box rear cover, ensuring the new CC wiring loom passes out along with the rest of the cables. Tie them together with a small wire tie.

4) Connecting the wiring loom

Now, thread the 'loose' end of the new CC wiring loom (with the bare terminals) in behind the dashboard, following the other wiring routes, and push them up to the

location of the main cable socket box.

Working outside now, pull the terminals up through the aperture, and ensure the coloured tags are in place to identify the wires.

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Now, taking the black socket, install all the new wiring loom terminals into their respecting numbered positions.

Again, there is a purple securing grid on the back of the socker that will need clicking into it's alternative position whilst you insert the terminals.

Be careful here to ensure the terminals go into the correct positions on the socket, as the ID numbers are moulded into the socket and are quite small.

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Once all the terminals are in place, click the purple grid back, and re-seat the socket in it's holder.

Click all the plugs back into their respective coloured sockets, and re-seat the mounting grid.

Re-install all removed items in the reverse order of removal:

Cable socket box

Wiper mechanism

Scuttle panel

Wiper arms

Bulkead rubber seal

Fuse box

Dash panelling

Under-dash panel.

5) Enabling the cruise control

To carry out this final operation, you will need to access the control codes for the ECU.

This can be done in several ways.

1) Go to a dealer or specialist with a VW1551 or 1552 tool.

2) Use the emulation software by Ross-Tech

For the latter the following is the 'generic' procedure for carrying out this enabling work:

Select engine control module by pressing "01Q".
Select read data function by pressing "08Q".
Read group 06 by pressing "06Q" or "006Q" depending on which version of VAG 1551 tool that you have.
The 1551 will display a bunch of numbers. The fourth group of numbers, on the far right of the display will be either "0" or "255". "0" means that cruise control is

already enabled. If you see "255" then cruise control is locked, unlock it using the following steps.
Press the right arrow key.
For login procedure press "11Q".
Enter the unlock code "11463Q".
Now repeat the above steps and see if that "255" has changed to a "0".

When you switch the cruise control 'on' with the new stalk switch, and the ignition is 'on', the symbol should alight in the speedo.

Turn the iginition 'off', remove the key, then proceed as normal to drive the car.

Ensuring you have a clear open stretch of road, test the controls.

You must have the stalk switch in the 'on' position for it to work.

CHECK THE CRUISE CONTROL DISENGAGES WHEN THE BRAKE OR CLUTCH IS PRESSED (be ready to knock it out of gear when testing the clutch switch!)

WELL DONE - IT WASN'T THAT DIFFICULT WAS IT?

END OF STAGE 3.

Indicator stalk connector pin outs
 

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Have recently retro fitted this on my mk4 V5 170 Golf, using Foxy's guide.

My car did not require the extra wiring to the Ecu that some models do (just the standard additional wiring harness which comes with the kit).

I found Foxy's guide very helpful and thought I would add a few observations to hopefully assist others;

1. Disconnect battery negative before starting.

1a. The airbag connector plug pulls out straight out from the centre. I was a bit hesitant about this as it was quite tight and I didn't want to break it. Thanks to Chris/Imagewerx for confirming this. Note the direction of the plug. I marked it on the airbag unit with a marker pen, so I was sure it went back the same way.

2. Can't see that you should have any problems with airbag light/resetting (as I've seen on some threads) or anything else if the power is off before you start disconnecting and is not restored until after everything is reconnected. I certainly didn't

3. The steering wheel nut has loctite on it. So you'll need some of that.

4. The steering wheel nut requires an M12 XZN bit. Some people refer to this as an M12 spline bit. I don't think that's exactly accurate. The correct tool is XZN (although lots of places may call it spline). You can buy one for a couple of quid. I got one on ebay - it was worth the postage to save a special trip to Halfords. If you buy the bit on its own (as opposed to one which is attached to own socket) it fits in a 10mm socket. You are going to be using your torque wrench on this (60Nm) so you will want to be comfortable that your 10mm socket it up to it. I used my half inch drive 10mm socket rather than my 3/8th drive for that task.

5. Dash removal is easy if you do it in the right order. First fuse cover, second the whole panel around the fuse cover (it just unclips), third the rhs curved panel, fourth the lhs one, fifth the plastic panel beneath the two curved ones (that you've just removed, sixth the flat panel right underneath (which now just slides out). The reason for doing this in order is that some panels lock the other ones in place and some screws cant be accessed until the previous panel is out. Wish I had known this when I did the clutch pedal a while back !

6. Good luck with removing the connector for fuse no 5. After attempting this over a couple of evenings including attempts using wires, tiny screwdrivers, tiny screwdrivers which I'd specially bent the ends of, specially made tools, etc, I said boll*cks to it. While my preference would have been to remove the terminal, and clip in the one from the new wiring harness, I decided if its that difficult to get the terminal out, it will be just as difficult to do it again should I ever want to remove the CC. The CC wiring harness has connectors on it, but they will not let you just unclip and remove the harness - you'd have to remove these terminals form the fuse box again. So out came the soldering iron and some delicate soldering of the blue/black wire from the new harness into the blue/black wire going into the back of fuse no. 5. The soldered join must be taped properly.

7. Leave all the panels off for the next stage of connecting.

8. Before starting make sure you have a puller that can get underneath the ends of the wiper arms. It will need to be a small puller as there is not much room. The wipers are on splines and tapered and mine were a little corroded. I would NOT have wanted to try to lever them off - you'd risk cracking the plastic scuttle or, worse, the windscreen.

8a. When removing the scuttle panel, unscrew the piece that covers the pollen filter - 4 screws. And when you have unclipped the panel you may need to lift it up the windscreen to free the ends before bringing it back down and under the bonnet. Don't apply any force, the ends are reasonably thin. It does come out quite easily one you work it around the bonnet hinges.

9. You don't have to unclip the wiper motor wiring before easing the wiper mechanism out. (It is hard to get your fingers onto the locking clip underneath) The wiper motor can be gently eased out - be careful not to catch a couple of other bits of wiring as you do. Once out, you can easily access the locking clip on the wiring plug.

10 To get the wires from the CC loom into the back of the black plastic connector, Foxy says he unclipped and lifted out (upwards) the black grid that all the connectors sit in. I bow down to that man. I could see and just about access the clips around that black plastic grid, but could I unclip them - never in a million years. Also the black grid is reasonably delicate and I did not want to destroy it. So I accessed the back of the black connector by unclipping it from the black grid (from outside) and then gently pulling it down into the foot well (from inside).

Now it might be easier to get that plug down if you remove all of the plugs (as is shown in the printed instructions that come with the parts) but I was a bit concerned about getting all the plugs back up into position afterwards, so I didn't. As it turned out, getting the black one back up an clipped back in was quite easy, so maybe if you are really having trouble reaching the black connector to get the new spade terminals into it, you may be better off unclipping all the connectors.

To get the new spade terminals into their numbered slots you need (i) good eyesight (long sighted farmers - forget it) and (ii) a head torch (Homebase do a really good bright lightweight 8 LED one for about a tenner). You will be lying on your back in the foot well and the numbers on the back of the connector are tiny). Remember to route the harness from the new CC sensibly before you start connecting the new spade terminals into the black connector, because after you've clipped them in and want to push it back up to the plastic grid, its too late then to start thinking about where you should have routed the wires.

Clipping the black connector back up into the grid is not difficult. Just reach up from below and push it into place.

11. One other tool - the ring clamp that secures the two stalks to the steering column. Mine was a 4mm hex nut (you could use an allen key) rather than a torx nut.

12. Like a lot of jobs it would be quicker to do a second time, but it is quite easy as long as you don't try to rush it.
 

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Loads of good advise i would add another 3 points to this extra info.

TAPE the steering wheel angle sensors (the back ring on the back of the steering wheel) before removing it to stop the outside ring spinning and causing issues with ESP lights (i parked my car with a turn of lock on it getting on the drive but i put the sensor back in what i thought was the right place but clearly i was wrong).
so park it straight and tape the ring up to stop it moving[:)]

the screen/plastic part you need to remove under the wipers, remove the 4 screws that hold the pollen filter in place, then remove the clip on the wing near the hinge. push down first on the thin edge( 2 clips) then out (2 more clips), then get your hand into the edge (pollen filter side) and pull up in this corner first and work your way along, the edge is about 15mm deep into the recess under the windscreen

when dropping the pins in to the black plug check pin 9 then check AGAIN, pin 8 and 9 are next to each other, putting into the wrong place is easy done (i did not do it wrong but i questioned it's position) it goes into the middle rows.

HTH
 

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Thanks for the great advice. I have one additional comment to add. When connecting the new CC wiring loom into the ECU it is essential to put the socket into the realease position. Foxy briefly mentions it in his guide but its easy to overlook and think that the wires have clipped in place when they haven't. The pins will push in and click without moving the socket into its realease position but they won't have pushed through enough so when you reassemble everything they won't connect.



You need to use a small flathead screwdriver to lever the pink part of the socket from the sides so it slides open a couple of millimetres. This will allow the new wires to push firmly through the connector and protrude sufficently on the other side to make contact when the socket is reassembled.

I completely missed this when doing mine and had to take everything apart again to fix it!
 

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Great guide. I've just had delivered my cruise kit from vwspeed and I fancy a crack at it this weekend.

I don't have an M12 drive, can I use anything else, I have a set of large torx heads. Or can I get an M12 from Halfrauds or anywhere?

Cheers
 

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I went to Halfrauds and they didn't have a clue what I was on about with regard to the spline bolts, they certainly didn't have any.

Will the indicators and everything work without the cruise unit being activated by VAGCOM? I want to fit the stalk and then attempt the wiring on another day, is it possible?

Thanks
 

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I wouldn't recommend using anything other than the proper M12 XZY Spline bit as you risk chewing up the head on the bolt if you try using anything else. I picked up the Laser 34 piece set from Halfrauds for £15 which I didn't think was too bad. It comes with 5 different sizes of M bit as well as RM and T type bits. Should come in handy for future projects. Don't bother asking the Halfrauds staff though - they won't have a clue what it is. You'll need to look the the 'special tools' cabinet yourself. I had to go to two stores before I found it. Don't bother with B&Q, Wickes or Homebase either - none have anything specialist like this. ScewFix might be able to help if you can't get from Halfrauds. They are also availble on eBay.

I don't see why the cruise control stalk won't function as a normal indicator stick without the wiring. It appears to be identical in every way to the non-cruise stalk just with an additional loom needed for the cruise switch.

Good luck with the install!
 

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Cool, thanks for your reply.

I ended up getting this set off eBay and have to say that I'm now quite pleased with the price, Laser is a recognised brand that Halfrauds sell anyway.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=390033306836

What sealant do I have to use on the spline from the steering wheel?

Cheers
You can't complain at that price!

As for the sealant I didn't bother as I believe that the sealant already applied is good for 5 removals? That said, some people have mentioned using loctite superglue.
 

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Sorry for another question, but I'm assuming that I'll still have to do all of the wiring steps as this is needed for the indicators and lights and stuff, or can I get away with just putting the new stalk in place and hiding the wires temporarily, until tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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The wiring for the lights \ indicators etc is already in place and the loom will just plug straight into the new CC stalk. I therefore would think that the new stalk will function to control the indicators and full beams just fine. You can plug in the new CC loom and run the cable into the space behind the steering wheel and hide it away until you are ready to connect it up to the ECU and Fuse 5.

Just one thing - if you don't have a special removal tool for fuse 5 don't even bother trying to take it out. Cut off the connector and solder it to the existing wire then use a heatshrink cable seal to insulate it (or lots of insulating tape). Trust me - it's a heck of a lot quicker.
 

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That is blue loctite (can't remember the code i use it on my mtb though) i just put a bit extra on. VAG say don't remove more than 3 times else you have to replace the plug. Why? i dunno it's not wearing the item it's just removing some loctite which i replaced anyways!

i bought the lazer bit as well cost me £3.20! from my local suppliers i was just pointing out that Halfords did / do have them they are just muppets..

as mike says wire it all in and just plug in the CC loom into the stalk but leave it under the car else you have to get access to the stalk again.. may as well plugit in and leave it tucked under the dash!

as for fuse 5 it's is a sucker to get out if you don't have the "special tool" but i used 2 paper clips one shoved in each side and it came out pertty easy!
 
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