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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, for those of you that have a rear wiper problem and its not the pipe coming off but the spray sweeps with the wiper, the spray is weak and fills the boot wth water this is what you've been waiting for.

The fix up to now has been to replace the whole wiper motor assembly at a cost of about ?70 but i've bitten the bullet and attempted to fix the internal pipe.

The problem is that the water spray is simply a pipe that runs through the center of the spindle. Over time this inner pipe corrodes and attaches itself to the outer pipe that carries the wiper arm and spray unit. Because its not meant to turn with the wiper, it breaks and all of your water ends up in the boot. This can be prevented by taking apart the mechanism and applying some copper grease to prevent the corrosion in the first place.

The rest of you that have left it too late (like me) have to make the best of a bad situation.

To Start, undo the 1/2inch nut and rmeove the wiper arm. Remove the trim from the boot lid and undo the 3x10mm nuts holding the wiper motor assembly to the lid. Removal of the wiper mechanisim is simply to pull it through from the rear of the boot lid.

Once removed, use a pair of pliers and pull off the spray cap off the end. Its just an interference fit on the end of the internal pipe.

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Mine came out with the internal (broken) pipe attached

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Undo the 6 or so T15 torx screws on the back cover and remove along with the plastic 90deg plastic thingummy. This should leave you with two ends of the internal pipe with the corroded bit stuck in the external pipe.

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To clear the external pipe of obstruction, use a 5mm drill and drill straight through the centre of the external pipe. Your now ready to apply the fix.

Clean up both ends of the remaining pipe, i just used a junior hacksaw and a swiss needle file to make good the ends.

I found a small piece of tube that was exactly the right size although i don't know where i got it from, it was just in my toolbox. I tried the WD40 red piping, the internals of a BIC pen, air pipe from the fish tank etc, but everything was either too big of too small. The point is, it either has to fit inside the internal pipe or have an external dia of max 5mm to fit over the internal pipe but allow the wiper to move without interfering with the internal pipe.

This is the finished internal pipe. I'll fit the spray attachment when its back on the car so as to get it pointing in the right direction. I used quick setting Araldite glue to fix the plastic pipe to the broken internal pipe and used a smear of cooper grease between the two pipes to prevent further corrosion.

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Hope this is a help if only to make people aware of why the problem occurs. My advice is to take the motor/pipes apart BEFORE it corrodes and apply some copper grease. Its easy enough and would only take an hour or two to prevent this expensive problem.

David.
 

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Excellent. Thanks for sharing that with us. Well done Blah [^]

Question - do you think regular application of a tiny squirt of WD40 on the nozzle end of the spindle ( under the cap, if you know what I mean ) would prevent this corrosion?

Or do you recommend that a full strip-down and copper-grease is the best way to avoid corrosion now you have seen the problem close up?

Ta

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Difficult to say Paul, i'm sure an application of WD40 would help to prevent the problem but if i bought another Golf, i'd be inclined to take it apart and do it properly. Honestly, its a very straightforward job and you wouldn't even have to remove the wiper or the motor mechanism.

Just remove the dust shield from the wiper arm and use a pair of pliers to pull off the spray attachment. From inside the boot, remove the trim to expose the motor, pop off the water feed pipe and undo the 6 torx screws. The internal pipe and the backing plate will come out together. Slap some grease on it and put it back in. Then reverse the above to put it back together.

It would be as easy as that. Whilst your at it, use the new connecting pipe from the stealers (?1.63) to prevent the pipe ever coming off (another common problem).
 

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Talking to a Guy at the local Stealers today who told me there is a "Rear wiper repair kit" part number 8L0 998 711 for ?25.46 +vat.

He doesnt know what the kit contains because its description is still in German on the system. Have VW finally realised there is a problem that requires are repair kit rather than a complete new unit?? Can anyone understand German? maybe worth a trip to the Stealers if they can and check this number out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Brummy, welcome to the forum, i'm pleased the first thing you've learnt is how to save money. This forum has saved me loads over the years but has cost me more in mods/upgrades trying to keep up with the Jones's.

:eek:)
 

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I went to close my boot this weekend, and noticed my rear washer nozel
was looking a bit clogged up, so I went to clean it...and the tip
corroded away in my fingers! This means when I try to squirt some water
on the rear window, it just piddles out! Funnily enough, if I leave the
plastic cover flipped up, it piddles out enough to dump a load of water
on someone behind me in traffi.

----------------------------

 

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You lucky guys,

Mine had leaked everywhere for years before I got my car and now I need a tailgate catch, tailgate handle, handle gasket and possibly some stuff to stop rust because its eating away at the bottom of my tailgate lid.
 

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I had a similar problem in my vehicle and I should add that there is an o-ring in the end of the shaft which was destroyed. Can be seen in repair kit also

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/rear-wiper-motor-repair-kit/8l0998711/

If you don't have the o-ring, water will drip inside slowly.

Inner shaft outer diameter is 3.4mm thick, outer shaft inner diameter is 4.7mm and the pieces of o-ring I found there was about ~0.8mm thick. I guess it is either quite tight in there or it somehow got swollen perhaps...
 
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