Clay baring your car is very much like making love to a beautiful woman.
First you wash her down. Make sure she's wet; then with your tool, rub it all over until she's smooth. Finally, rinse her off and rub her down with a towel. You might want to use some wax afterwards too.
PLEASE NOTE: These instructions are for all the SWISSOL waxes bar Mystery & Divine. If you have Shield wax, instructions are also included here on how to use Paint Rubber (Clay Bar)..
Firstly make sure that you are fully prepared and remember that preparing your car to Concours standard, takes time & patience. The secret to a car detailing, being thorough & methodical. Remember too, that the waxing is the finale.... the icing on the cake! Cleaning the paintwork etc takes time, but you will find that as you go through each stage the paint becomes smoother, gains lustre etc. The wax provides extra gloss & feel to the paint as well as protection.
Start by wetting the car using a pressure washer or hose & then hand wash the car using a washcloth (small white towel in the kit) & the car bath provided. Rinse the vehicle & leave wet. Taking the Paint Rubber (clay bar) allow to stand in some hot water to soften for a few minutes. Then place the clay in the palm of your hand & starting with the roof, move the clay over the painted surface in a back & forth motion. Using wet finger tips gently feel the paint surface before and after using the clay. It will not have the pimply feel to the paint that it had before starting & but will be super smooth after claying it. Always keep the surface of the paint well lubricated with water or the quick finish supplied, otherwise the clay will stick to the paint. Proceed from the roof to the bonnet & boot & then on down to the doors & lower extremities. Pay particular attention to tar spotting, on the lower halves of the doors. If you have a stubborn tar spot just press the edge of the clay & rub somewhat harder & the tar will disappear. When you have finished, there is no need to wash the car again unless you really want to, as any clay smudges will disappear when using the cleaner fluid. If your Kit does not include a clay bar, then please ignore there above instructions regarding its use. Then dry car with an old clean very soft towel which has been washed without softener.
The next stage is cleansing.
This operation removes further dirt build up from the paint & any remnants of clay from the paintwork. The bottle you have will provide around four to six complete applications! Using the white applicator squirt on some Cleaner Fluid & work in & over the paint in an area of say 1 sq. metre. Allow the product to dry briefly (max 30 seconds) buff with the brown terry towel. Do not waste time getting out every mark from the paint... you'll never do it. As soon as you have done one area, move onto the next area. As you have clayed the car, the cleansing operation is very quick & more of a wipe on wipe off scenario. When done stand back & admire the resultant gloss & feel of the paint. Always feel paint with the back of your hand and knuckles & never with dry or greasy fingertips. The paint will feel silk soft & super smooth. Before we move on, always ensure that all the shut lines have been cleaned. Open doors & clean door jambs etc etc.
The final stage...waxing
Take the black wax applicator & you will see that it has two distinct surfaces. One side is cloth & the important side is sponge. This is the side we are going to use for waxing... in other words it's a case of sponge side down. Open the lid of the wax & you will see a white shive. Remove this shive to expose the wax. Now taking the black applicator sponge side down, twirl it across the surface of the wax to load it. Now starting with the roof wipe the applicator in a back & forth motion without pressing so as to spread the wax across the paintwork. If you male chicken your head to one side you will see the wax leaving a type of greasy film on the paintwork. Continue applying wax to all the paintwork, all light clusters front & rear, number plates & to the wheel rims. Remember the wax you are using has in excess of 10 times the wax content of a normal off the shelf preparation !! Remember too that the wax pot will provide 45-50 complete waxings... APPLY VERY SPARINGLY. Apply wax in the shade if possible. If you have no shaded area it is perfectly possible to wax in direct sun light.
Once you have applied wax to the above-mentioned surfaces, store the wax applicator in a clear poly bag (a sandwich bag will suffice). Expel the air & seal it. Move the car into direct sunlight to aid curing.
Now go and take a break. After a while take the black terry towel & fold it in half & in half again. Place the towel pad on the roof & with your hand and outstretched fingers, move the pad in a back & firth motion over the dried (hazed) wax surface.
You will now see the most awesome gloss & be able to feel very "soft" paint. When all done leave the car standing in direct sunlight for around 2 hours. This will deepen & enhance the gloss. Now taking the black terry towel again, very briskly but gently feather dust the surface again. Stand back and admire your handiwork & the resultant gloss. If you have any problems in applying the products or want to seek more guidance please do not hesitate to call us.
Generally speaking the Cleanser Fluid stage is done only once every Six months. During normal weekly washes you also do not have to re wax the vehicle, you merely jet wash, Shampoo & dry for a gloss finish. Regular waxing is recommended i.e. once a month. However the more wax layers that are built up on the vehicle over time the more protection it will have & the better the gloss finish will be. In addition it will also be easier to clean.
Wash all terry towels & the white square applicator with the ordinary wash at 30 to 40 degrees C. Allow the towels & applicator to air dry.
The black wax applicator is best stored in a sealable sandwich bag. This keeps the applicator moist & ready for next use. Once the level of the wax has dropped in the pot, you can store the pad in the pot (this is what we do).
Should the black applicator dirty (say through dropping on the floor) hand wash in lukewarm water & then rinse thoroughly. Once towels & pads are dry, store them in the storage bag that came with your kit.
Engine (Using the MC2 non-SWISSOL multipurpose cleaner)
Warm the engine for 10 minutes & then switch off. Spray Multiclean (it has a very orangey aroma) all over the top of the engine & to the underside of the bonnet. Once this has been done, lower bonnet but do not shut fully. Now wash the car using a pressure washer to loosen all the road dirt. Open the bonnet & with the engine still switched off, pressure wash the engine bay & the underside of the bonnet. Now check to see if all the grease & dirty black Socmo line (transit paraffin based wax) has been removed. If required reapply Multiclean & allow to soak for a few minutes. Now pressure wash again. Be careful not to aim the pressure washer jet onto the intercooler or alarm housing!
When done, restart the engine but do not rev it.. let it merely idle now until the coolant fan cuts in at least twice & then switch off again. Now using an old, towel mop up excess water from battery, air filter etc.
Wheels (Using the MC2 non-SWISSOL multipurpose cleaner)
Spray Multiclean (it has a very orangey aroma) all over the wheel rims. Allow to soak in for a few minutes. Agitate with a brush & then pressure wash wheels. Now wash wheels with soap & water & rinse thoroughly.
? Note1: Multiclean is a natural product & will not harm the environment. If accidentally sprayed onto bodywork there is no need to wash off.
? Note2: For regular maintenance dilute with water to 1 part Multiclean & 10 parts water.
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A paint cleanser is normally used after the paint rubber. The only alternative to a paint rubber is to use some compound with a high cut factor in it, to remove all the surface imperfections, and this is when you will get swirl marks.
Use of a paint rubber is not difficuly, but you just must NOT rush it and make sure that you have washed the car extremely well before using it. Adequate amounts of lube should also be used to stop the rubber sticking to the paintwork as well. Do not do it in direct sunlight as the lube dries out far too quickly at the moment.
Some of the paint rubbers that you can get on the market are a lot softer than others, there is a cream coloured one that a lot of people use that springs to mind, especially if you get them warm, which is what you have to do anyway, but in this weather they tend to leave residue all over the paintwork. Other paint rubbers are slightly firmer and tend not to go as sticky These are more like the Swissol/Zymol ones are tend to be yellow in colour.
The paint rubber basically removes all the small surface imperfections that lodge themselves onto the paint surface. You can feel these if you run the back of your hand over the paint surface of an untreated car or run your finger tips over it after you have put them in a plastic bag (makes the fingers tips more sensitive). These are also the 'bits' that drag on the cloth when you polish a car and are a pain to get rid of. This then leaves the surface of the paintwork silky smooth, enabling the paint cleaner of wax or whatever you want to use to be applied easier and more quickly.
It does not take that long to do a whole car either, probably about an hour once the car has been washed. Remember that you don't need to dry the car if you are going to use the clay, as you are going to be getting it wet again, and then use another product afterwards anyway.
The Paint cleaner will remove any excess bits of clay that have stuck to the paint surface after use, as well as clean the paint surface, revealing the true lustre of the underlying paint. It will also feed the paint with essential oils that help to give that deep wet look gloss.
The paintwork should then be sealed using a suitable wax, which should be regarded as the icing on the cake so to speak, with most of the preparation work going into the clay and paint cleaner stages.
Most of all, the important thing to remember when using a clay bar us to cut it up into smaller pieces when you initially get it, and not use the whole lump in one go. This is because if you drop the clay, well you MUST bin it! You will NEVER get all the grit and dust out of the clay and you should either relgate it to the bin or save it for the wheels only.
It also help matters if you have an old sheet or something suitable available, and place this on the ground around the area of the part of the car that you are treating at that time. Then if you do drop the clay....it might live for another day.
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