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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
[:mad:]Weird question but does anybody know how strong it should be, my work colleague kindly pulled the pin on my new tensioner i am going to fit next week, it was almost impossible to put back in, are they supposed to be that strong? and will it of damaged it by being released without anything to push against?

Odd question i know but help would be appreciated, i dont want to take it all apart and find i need another tensioner, my colleague can get me another if thats the case.
 

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I to was astonished at how much force is required to retract the piston. I had to do it in a vice.

As for being in the un-retracted position damaging it, don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you re-use your old tensioner then? or you just pushed the piston back in for the hell of it? sounds like something i would do[:D]
 

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No, I renewed it when I did the belt change.

Mines a PD TDI by the way but it uses the same piston assembly as the 1.8

I didn't mess with the new at all, I kept the transit peg in until I fitted up the belt and tensioner and had a play with the old one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well sounds like you did it properly anyway.

It should be fine though as i'm sure you are meant to be able to replace the belt without using a new tensioner, therefore it must be ok for the piston to be pushed back in after coming out.

Thats my thinking on it anyway
 

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Yes but when you take the tension off, your supposed to re-insert the transit clip whilst you do the belt change.

I'm sure it'll be ok but....... if it were mine I'd renew it, which I did anyway, quite pricy at about ?70 though, this was however for the 2nd belt change at 120k !

I won't be doing it for the 3rd belt change at 180k ....... but might again at 240k [^o)] [:|] LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeh my Golf is at 103k with last belt change at 50k so i reckon its ready for another belt and also the tensioner this time, I am a bit annoyed that my colleague pulled the pin just out of couriosity, most likely it will make no difference to it at all, its very stiff to push the piston back in which sounds normal, the piston obviously is designed to go in and out with a belt change anyway, otherwise you would have to replace it every time.

Its just lots of effort changing the belt and tesnioner etc if i find it requires another tensioner, i would have to take it apart and put it all back together again, worse case scenario it fails and the belt comes off and big engine bill, unlikely but a scary thought nevertheless.
 

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Does anyone have the part numbers for the cambelt tensioners please.

Also,should i change the waterpump at the same time?

Thanks
 

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Does anyone have the part numbers for the cambelt tensioners please.

Also,should i change the waterpump at the same time?

Thanks
Zoom in on this and read it...

Posted Image


And yes, the water pump should be changed.

Also if you are not doing the damper, do the idler pulley which you can see sitting on it (again part number visible)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Depends on your confidence with spanners, i found it fiddly but not too tricky, just take your time and be methodical. I used the below write up which i think is great, makes it pretty simple, by putting marks on the old belt, cam gear and valve cover/rocker cover, then removing the old belt and transferring the marks onto a new one means you pretty much cannot go wrong.

As long as you make sure you transfer the marks from old to new belt correctly and you put the new belt on with the marks lining up on the cam gear (cogs) then your mint [:)] i didnt even bother to crank it over to tdc, i just made sure i moved nothing when i removed and replaced the belt and i could see i had not moved anything as it was all marked, rocker cover to cam gear cogs to belt, all still in line.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2840728
 

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Depends on your confidence with spanners, i found it fiddly but not too tricky, just take your time and be methodical. I used the below write up which i think is great, makes it pretty simple, by putting marks on the old belt, cam gear and valve cover/rocker cover, then removing the old belt and transferring the marks onto a new one means you pretty much cannot go wrong.

As long as you make sure you transfer the marks from old to new belt correctly and you put the new belt on with the marks lining up on the cam gear (cogs) then your mint
i didnt even bother to crank it over to tdc, i just made sure i moved nothing when i removed and replaced the belt and i could see i had not moved anything as it was all marked, rocker cover to cam gear cogs to belt, all still in line.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2840728
I don't agree with your method.

You need to time the engine up as to do things properly you need to slacken the cam pulley so as to allow the belt to be tensioned properly.

Obviously if you don't slacken the pulley, and you apply tension to the belt there is a danger it would will pull the cam timing out.

It is therefore vital that you time both the crank and cam to TDC so as to preserve the timing once the cam pulley is loose to enable the belt to be tensioned.

Don't do this at your peril peeps.
 

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Mine is coming up soon aswell. How hard is it?
Easier on an A4 than on a Golf as the the engine is longditudinal, meaning everything being at the front is easier to access.

You do need to pull the front end (lock carrier) into the service position though.
 

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Mine is coming up soon aswell. How hard is it?
Easier on an A4 than on a Golf as the the engine is longditudinal, meaning everything being at the front is easier to access.

You do need to pull the front end (lock carrier) into the service position though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Depends on your confidence with spanners, i found it fiddly but not too tricky, just take your time and be methodical. I used the below write up which i think is great, makes it pretty simple, by putting marks on the old belt, cam gear and valve cover/rocker cover, then removing the old belt and transferring the marks onto a new one means you pretty much cannot go wrong.

As long as you make sure you transfer the marks from old to new belt correctly and you put the new belt on with the marks lining up on the cam gear (cogs) then your mint
i didnt even bother to crank it over to tdc, i just made sure i moved nothing when i removed and replaced the belt and i could see i had not moved anything as it was all marked, rocker cover to cam gear cogs to belt, all still in line.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2840728
I don't agree with your method.

You need to time the engine up as to do things properly you need to slacken the cam pulley so as to allow the belt to be tensioned properly.

Obviously if you don't slacken the pulley, and you apply tension to the belt there is a danger it would will pull the cam timing out.

It is therefore vital that you time both the crank and cam to TDC so as to preserve the timing once the cam pulley is loose to enable the belt to be tensioned.

Don't do this at your peril peeps.
Its definately a risk not to line everything up with TDC, it leaves you with no backup plan should things move and you mess up your markings, it depends if your confident with marking everything up properly.

I managed to do it without slackening the pulley and without moving anything with the tension required to get the new belt back on, both the crank and cam position were marked in 2 places each so i could see if they moved at all and the old belt was also marked in 4 places, which when removed i used it to copy the marks onto the new belt, 2 marks top and 2 marks bottom, so once the new belt is on as long as the 2 marks top (cam gear) and 2 marks bottom (crank gear) all line up perfectly then the crank and cam gear must be in the same position in relation to each other and there surroundings, basically as long as you copy the marks correctly from the old belt to the new belt it cannot go wrong [:)]

Just take your time
 
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