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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Iv sent my motor for a service and the stealers are asking for 65 squid to change the brake fluid. I laughed and told them not to bother

How important is it to change the brake fluid?

Can i do it my self as i have changed the disks and pads my self - can any one direct me to any guides?

Thanks!
 

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Sorry mate but this is one of those times the stealers

have you by the short and curlys....

to flush the system the use a vaccum,

depends on the milage but imo best get it done and stamped in the book
 

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Did mine myself with an Eezi-bleed kit and it was pretty straightforward.  Quite a few people on here have changed theirs as well without any bother.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice one!

ok i will try this one myself. Can anyone tell me where to get this bleeding kit from and what brake fluid is best?
 

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Gunsons Eezi-bleed - I think you should be able to get one from Halfords and a lot of decent car accessory places. Price around ?12-14.

I just got the VW DOT 4 fluid and used that. Didn't want to get into all the stuff about whether fluid x is better than fluid y and whether this one is compatible with that one.
 

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Have a search on posts by me - I've written about this before.

In short - Eezibleed, DOT4, don't touch brake pedal, don't let reservoir empty, hour's work to do.

Brake fluid absorbs water, so you risk internal corrosion, and early brake fade once the water in the fluid boils.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys

Ok i will give this a try.

i will pick up some DOT4. Which Brands are good?

How many litres are required for this proccess?
 

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Any DOT4 should be fine as they are all made to meet a fairly high standard so brand isnt really an issue could be castrol or VW
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All done, but i bottled it in the end and gave it to my machanic to do.

iv just driven it and the pedal feels complety different, go goes down much further, also there is hardly no braking when the pedal is pressed half way. i have to push the pedal right down to make it stop fast is this normal?? or should i be concerned
 

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All done, but i bottled it in the end and gave it to my machanic to do.

iv just driven it and the pedal feels complety different, go goes down much further, also there is hardly no braking when the pedal is pressed half way. i have to push the pedal right down to make it stop fast is this normal?? or should i be concerned
It is not normal, nor is it safe, either the system has not been bled properly or the master cylinder has been damaged by an inappropriate bleeding technique.
If air has been inavertantly introduced into the system, it can be very difficult to remove from the ABS system, there is a built in bleeding routine in the controller which can be activated with VAGCOM.
I believe that there are also 2 bleed screws on the master cylinder.

I would take te car straight back to your mechanic and get him to do it properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hopefully there has been no damage done, the machanic is very experienced. I know he blead the systems manually by pumping the pedal.

does the master cyclinder have to be blead as well in this proccdure?

i will ask him on monday to sort it out. for now the breaks still work but you have to press further
 

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There lies the problem.

The old school way of bleeding brakes is by pedal pumping, not so with our cars.

They should be pressure or vacuum bled otherwise if the pedal pumping method is used there is a danger of inverting the master cylinder seals, which it sounds like has happened in your case. It is doubtful that being an experienced mechanic he would have let air into the system and that you shouldn't need to bleed the ABS system either, more likely that he may simply be unaware that the bleeding has to be done this way rather than the time honoured way of pedal pumping.
 

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Wouldnt worry too much about flipping the seals in this case, we had a
lot of pain both with my Golf and with the S3, turned out to be the
master cylinder needed bleeding, there is a bleed nipple right
underneath (you can see it unless you look for it).

The first time I had it done, i took it to my old mentor (proper old
time mechanic who can 'smell' problems out lol) and he did the same,
pump bled it (although it felt fine at the time), left it over night
and gave it to me and it was mega spongy and loads of travel....

I'm really fussy about a hard pedal with no travel at all and the
technique we arrived at the end was to pressure bleed the whole system
ending with the MC and then using the pump technique to get that
mega hard feel.

Dubsport in Wigan did the S3 using the routine in VagCom and it felt ok
but still not brilliant. Like i said, we ended up doing it ourselves
(mates garage) and pressure bled it a few times. You need 2 litres.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i will go to my machanic, but i think all he will offer me is another manual bleed, so i might end up doin this my self as originaly planned. are the rears to be done first, then fronts, followed by the MC. am i right in saying this is the device under the brake fluid resivour and it has 2 bleed nipples on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
just had my machanic do it again but he used the ezi bleed this time.

The pedal feels much better, it does not travel as far now. But i dont think it is a hard a it used to be.

the brakes work fine i could smell the tires!
 

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Sometimes, even when bled properly, there will be a liitle softness in the pedal for a while, in that case it usually firms up after a few days (the small amount of dissolved air finds its own way out).
 
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