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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

At the risk of sounding stupid, i would like to know where i would put the axel stands. I have heard people say you can only use the recommended still points?

Any one out there got any pics? Any advice?

thank you
 

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That's not a stupid question, I have been wondering the same. I do understand that the only recommended jacking points are on the strengthened sill - that goes for pretty much every car on the market, so why is it that no piece of jacking equipment seems to be the right shape to do this? [:S]

When I jack the rear of the car, I use the emergency jack on the sill, supplemented by a trolley jack with its cup fitted underneath the coil spring seat on the trailing arm.

What I do know is that when you take your car to your local wheel shop for new tyres or wheels, they just take four trolley jacks and lift the car up on those, after fiddling a bit to find a jacking point. Seems like some mysterious art [:|]
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see, i plan on changing the oil at the weekend , so you think it would be ok to put the axel stand on the sill point?
 

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I would say not - they're just the wrong shape. You need sill adapters, to prevent slippage. I'd also put some big breeze blocks under the wheels to be safe. Some people cut blocks of wood, a large groove to fit the sill, and jack/support on these.

Oh, how you have to laugh if you've lowered your car... [;)] I can't even get a trolley jack underneath without using the emergency jack to gain some clearance first [:D]
 

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Oh, how you have to laugh if you've lowered your car... [;)] I can't
even get a trolley jack underneath without using the emergency jack to
gain some clearance first [:D]
Seriously? You must have a large trolley jack. I used mine on 'a' Bora
which is slammed pretty much as far as it can go on FK coilovers
 

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Can you take a pic? Show us yer trolley jack [:D]

Yeah, mine's not even slammed, rear is set at full height (still -40mm or so) and the front probably lowered about 20mm? No body kit to clear either [:S]
 

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The ONLY place to jack any car is the points the manufacturer states -
in the Golf/Bora case, the strengthened points on the sill indicated by
the indented arrows on the front and rear of the sill.

Never jack on suspension points or floorpan/chassis areas where you do not know the structural integrity.

Trolley jack cups are fine to jack with against sills and will not slip
as long as you orientate the cup so the slots are encompassing the
sill. Always use axle stands if working under the car on the sill
points and chock the rear wheels.

If your tyre place is jacking on the suspension, take the keys back and drive away.
 

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Yes please tell us more about your trolley jack Cat, where did you get it? I always need to drive onto wooden blocks to get one under usually :eek:/
 

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The ONLY place to jack any car is the points the manufacturer states - in the Golf/Bora case, the strengthened points on the sill indicated by the indented arrows on the front and rear of the sill.
I know, pretty much the same for all cars.

If your tyre place is jacking on the suspension
Every place I've been to with any car has done this [:|] Well, I can't see exactly what points, but I will pay closer attention next time (with work's car, of course...)

As for car lifts, they don't lift on the sill either, they use pads which lift slightly inside the sill. This is what I don't understand. How come they can do it there.

When I lift the rear, I put the trolley jack directly under the coil spring because I know that is a load bearing point.
 

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The trolley jacks at tyre garages should be palced under the sill points.

The car lifts i have seen and used- the 4 post type that you drive on,
have the sliding jack that lifts on the chassis. Not a bad thing as it
jacks across the length of the chassis not in 1 place - ala trolley
jacks.

2 post jacks should have the pads swung under the sill jacking points too.

The coil spring plate is load bearing yes, but a lot of weight,
>25%? is on a very small area of the cup. Aswell as having to
compress the spring and shocker before the car starts to move upwards.
 

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I don't jack entirely under the rear coil spring, I do that in tandem with the emergency jack on the sill, to spread the load.

A mate of mine actually works for a company that manufactures 4-post lifts... if I had the money I'd build a bigger, heated garage with one of those installed, seriously. At the moment trying to do anything involving taking wheels off and/or getting underneath is a bit of a chore.
 

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Here you go.. knew I would forget if I left it to morning!

Sorry about the spectacularly rubbish pics! The silver thing is a ruler

Posted Image


Posted Image


I bought it in a local shop (Motac, for anyone in the Stirling area)
and it's manufactured by 'Rolson Quality Tools' I also found it on
the Maplin website.

Clicky

According to the box, it has

  • Low-High lift range 135mm to 330mm
  • Lifting Height 195mm
  • Broad swivel saddle with safety lugs

Here's the Bora to show the height, and the jack was used at the indicated jacking points on the sill

Posted Image
 

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Just what i use Cat [:)] Although, i do need 2, 1 to jack the rear of
the sill slightly enough to get one under the front of the sill. Damn
lowered cars [:D]
 

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get some scaffold boards and drive onto them first, then you should have no problems getting a trolley jack under there.

As for not jacking a car up on the subframe or suspension point - that is nonsense (providign it;s not a bearing arm or something that moves)

Think of a car hooring round a corner so fast it lifts a wheel. where does all the multiplied weight/force of the car get transmitted to the road? Teh cross beam both at front and back are more than adequate for lifting a car that weighs under 1.5Te.

The jack supplied with the car curves around the sill. This spreads the load a little. If you use a trolley jack on the same place - you have an concentrated load point. Not good. Also, this area is painted thickly. As paint gets older it gets brittle, putting a point load herer can cause it to crack and flake off. This leaves exposed steel, which will corrode very quickly.

What concerns me more is the little namby pamby axle stands that are sold in the likes of Halfrauds. SWL 1Te?!?!?!?!?
 

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today i fitted the back end of my coilover kit, wen i got down to
lowering the jack i was stuk! had to use another jack to get my first
one out!
 

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Before my MK4 turbo I had a MK3 cab so low you could not fit your foot under the sills and i bought an inflatable airbag from Argos for about ?30 you put a pipe on the exhaust and the bag fills up with exhaust fumes and lifts the car with the twin pipes you need to put a wet rag in one of them to seal it you can put it anywhere and once it has filled up you can turn off the engine and it stays inflated jobs a good un
 

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No worries Pat, glad I could help [:)]

Just what i use Cat [:)] Although, i do need 2, 1 to jack the rear of
the sill slightly enough to get one under the front of the sill. Damn
lowered cars [:D]
Yours must be sitting low indeed! Guessing it's wound all the way down
on coilovers, Stewarts 'almost' is but not quite & the jack fits
underneath fine
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Found this on Vortex

"Since some have asked:

Red Arrow: Major frame member. Can be used as a jack point, or better yet a jack stand point.

Blue Arrow: Hard to see, but that is a suspension arm that can be used as a jack point. Not my favorite place.

Green Arrow: Stock lifting point. I would buy the aftermarket rubber doughnuts to either put in the jack you are using (THE best way to go) OR the ones that fit in the stock holes in thSince some have asked:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v681/cmgreen/jackplacement.jpg
 

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If you are using the major frame member (red arrow) mwke sure you put your stand as far to the front of the car as you can.

If you dont that rail will compress.

Just like mine are.... lol
 
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