Ok, just back from a 350 mile trip so will get pics later but for now:
Drop steering wheel using height adjustment under the wheel
Remove the lower instrument cluster guard with cloth bit, just pulls off
Undo the two screws securing the cluster to dash
Pull the clocks forward and to the left and release the green plastic wiring clip by pulling upwards.
Do the same for the right hand side.
Clocks will now come out
With the clocks facing down on a bench remove the four hex screws from the rear of the cluster, the back will now come away as will the front.
Remove the needles by pulling straight up, try not to apply any sideways movement as you will bend the stems they are on
The printed face can now be removed
Looking at the lcd's you will see there is a silver cage around them, if you flip the cluster over you will see four clips for each cage pop them off one at a time and push them through the holes keeping the face of the clocks pointing down (I recommend you have a cloth under them ready to catch the glass LCD's just in case)
now flip the clocks back face up and if the lcd is still in place lift it off
You will see that there are two pieces of conductive rubber either on the LCD or stuck in the cluster. Don't worry if they have separated from the LCD its fine as we would be separating them anyway
If you lift the rubber out you will see the PCB underneath
With a cotton bud and alcohol or similar wipe the PCB contacts, do the same for both sides of each of the conductive rubber strips. Put the strips back into the slots.
Now wipe the edges of the LCD gently with a barely damp (with alcohol) cotton bud.
Place the LCD back on top of the conductive rubber pads.
Now is the part that made the difference for me, the cage was not applying enough pressure to the lcd for it to make a firm contact with the rubber pads what you need to do is apply very thin strips of tape to the back of the metal cage where it contacts the LCD screen. You are aiming to make the cage press more firmly on the glass part.
Once you have applied the tape then bend the legs of the cage in slightly to make sure it tightly grips the cluster tabs. Push the cage almost all the way but before snapping into place make sure the LCD is still straight on the pads, if not adjust it now py pushing it with a thin screwdriver.
Once your sure its reasonably straight snap the clips into place.
When you come to your needles the best way to make sure they are straight is very lightly press them on then turn to the direction of 0
They will stop when the reach the parked positions and you can then twist off while pulling up in the direction of the 0 position and then press them back on firmly.
All i would add to that is, it is much easier to remove the needles by twisting them clockwise all the way (turning the motor) until resistance is felt, (at the limit of the motor) and then keep going, lifting at the same time, they pop off much much easier this way, been there, and done that, and less likely to bend the shaft this way.
ok i have just followed the above guide and now i have nothing on my clocks at all and the immobiliser has kicked in so i have no car, when i say nothing, there is nothing on the centre LCD nor on the 2 lower LCd's, any idea what's gone wrong?
doesnt matter, must have been a loose wire, i pulled the clocks back out with the ignition on and they jumped into life, didn't cure my broken pixels on the lcd though, ahh well, something i can add to the knowledge books
A forum community dedicated to Volkswagen Mark 4 owners and enthusiasts in the UK. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more for the Golf, Bora, Jetta, Touran, and Scirocco!