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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

I have to admit this looks like an intimidating job.

My gear1 and gear 2 shifting has become worse and worse, now it's time to get this fixed. It's intermittent, it goes bad and then becomes normal again for a while and then goes back to being horrible to deal with.

Before I take it to a mechanic, I want to try one trick. I want to replace all the linkage parts that ha ve bushes in them - which may be the culprit.

This video shows 5 parts that can be replaced (6 included the rubber sliding surface) that can be bought off ebay for <£20.

Trouble is the video doesn't explain how to dismantle the gear selector mechanism - skips to the part with the mechanism out of the car.

Anyone done this before? Tips would be much appreciated.

 

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Have you tried adjusting/replacing the shift linkages? Think that’s what they’re called - engine bay, on top the gearbox. Made a big difference to mine - cheap and quite easy to do!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Have you tried adjusting/replacing the shift linkages? Think that’s what they’re called - engine bay, on top the gearbox. Made a big difference to mine - cheap and quite easy to do!
I read this advice often, but I don't understand how this can be done. The gear selector used in my golf is solid rod, not cable. So there's little adjustment that can be done. Maybe I'm wrong and not seeing something, here's my gear selector diagram on etka.


I am leaning towards changing the spacers #31 everywhere in case they are worn. + parts 24, 27 &30.

Looks like they'd just push together, with the ball fitting snug in the rubber bushing.
Thanks, now that you mention it, it makes complete sense. The entire selector mechanism seems to be 3 different parts, and they're joined together by the pop fitting rods. I will try and pry the bars apart and see if i can get anywhere with it.

The repair has now become a bit more expensive, total of £48 in parts. Part #26 failied on me you can see one of the rods attached to a piece of broken metal.

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I had to order everything from autodoc so parts might arrive at the end of the week. btw Any idea what that leak is? power steering hose? I checked all the fluid levels and they seem to be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cancelled the order with autodoc, read reviews that things can take up to 2 weeks to arrive from auto. (my order was on "processing" for 2 days). Placed the order with TPS for collection tomorrow. The price was OUCH.

I know it's selling on ebay (genuine VW) for less than what TPS charged me - but I'll get the parts quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Back to TPS again

I discovered the culprit

The gear selector bush is completely worn down, need a new one. I need to probably change the corrosponding rubber pad where this bush rides on but they're not sold individually. The bush is £4 on aliexpress, but would need to buy a full part from TPS.

The worn down bush is down to it's innards, so naturally the part was just FUBAR and was causing issues getting into gear. The complete mechanism got destroyed as I was forcing it into gear.

I need to make a decision between using wifes car for now and order the bush from aliexpress. Or get the part from TPS for god knows how much and replace it whole.


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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Oh yeah, the link are really stuck in there, they are push fit but they're really don't want to come out, There isn't a lot of room to work with, but I manged to disconnect the links without having to remove any other part. Use screwdiver to leverage the links out. Trying to get a scredriver into the balljoint to lever out doesn't work - there's just too much grase on there and it will slip off. . You have to apply the leverage on the rod itself and pry it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Job done,

The golf is a work vehicle for me, I used to to do amazon flex deliveries, so it needed to be fixed ASAP. Which meant that I had to get the parts from TPS for a grand total of £220 (parts). If I did preventative maintenance it would have just cost around a tenner in grease and £3 for the ball. If I had the time to wait for autodoc I could have possibly got all the parts I used for £90.

This was the ball that was complete FUBARd and allowed too much play meaning gear 1 couldn't be slotted and kept getting it into gear 3
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This is a whole new assembly, (they dont sell the ball, you have to buy the whole arm for £90. You can buy just the ball from aliexpress for £3 search 1J0711076G 096B)

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They changed the mechanism a bit.

I had to upgrade the following:
Original part number 1J0 711 076 D now changed to 1J0 711 076G
Original part number 1J0 711 183 E now changed to 1J0 711 183F

The above two part numberss need to be changed as pairs. The modifications is done on these 2 parts in combo with each other.

I found out after I phoned TPS I was just after 076 D and they informed me I needed those 2 new parts. Very helpful because I couldn't find 076D sold anywhere in UK, and all searches on the internet will take me to 076G.

Maybe this will help some. The different is just that they changed where the weight on the mechanism rests. The whole mechanism needs to be weighted down fand they changed where the weight sits.

This is a really annoying job. There is hardly any room to work with and the link arms need quite a bit of force to remove and slot back in. I had to use a mix of mole grips, and plumbers wrenches to get the right angle of attack to squeeze the links together. You have to take you time and take it slow and steady.

It doesn't help that the power steering line and brake lines are close which you can't move out the way. I do think perhaps with a helping hand and access from underneath, and the nearside wheel well some of these links would have been easier to put back in. But it is entirely possible to do this job top down from the bonnet.

I pushed in the links without taking out the gear stick assembly and without unscrewing parts 1J0 711 046 A gearshift lever or 1J0 711 176 C selector lever. it may have been easier to unscrew these parts and push the links in where you have room and then assemble the linked mechanism into the car. But I didn't want to take the risk of misaligning them and causing calibration issues, so I left them attached and used the limited room the clamp the links together.
 

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Thanks for following up on it with how you fixed it. Looks like a horrible job to do, glad it's all done now.

Does it shift much better now? I'm going to go ahead and order that one ball part for mine, doesn't look like it'll pull off easily though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Shift is a lot better, gears go in more precise now.

With this new setup I have here, I think I would be able to reach in with an extension and just unbolt the arm assembly with the ball, take it out and do a spot change on it. But on the factory setup you have the big heavy trapezoid weight in the way Google Image Result for https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eusAAOSwmNxadF6u/s-l400.jpg. if I just wanted to change the ball, I would disassmble just that unit off the subframe (2 bolts and nut) and replace the ball.

I didn't do it that way, so not 100% sure if it will work.

The factory setup uses this: Google Image Result for https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/eusAAOSwmNxadF6u/s-l400.jpg which makes access difficult because it sits smack bang on top of the assembly.
 
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