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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm considering an extra gauge or 2 on the AUQ engine in the Skoda..
For oil pressure, there's 2 options - use the unused hole, replacing the blanking plug with a sender - this apparently gives a reading a bit higher than reality.
The other is to use the existing oil temp sender... a more accurate source it seems.

If I were to use the original sender what would I need to buy to tap into that?
Obviously I'd need to keep the oil temp sender.. is there a temp/pressure combined sender?
Do I just add a t-piece? If so, any t-piece?
Something else?

The Prosport 60mm multi-gauge (boost, oil temp, oil pressure and voltage) looks ideal.. tucked away in the corner of the dash.. nice and discrete.
 

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if you look at the stuff from demon-tweeks you'll find they have fitting kits for those gauges for specific engines just look at the parts in the listing and either buy the kit from them (expensive) or find it cheaper elsewhere and collect the parts to create your own fitting kit.

it must be said seldom you get all the parts in one go. but the last time i build in an oil sender was on a mk golf that needed a t-piece and because it was a mk1 it wanted it's own oil line fed to the gauge (for the pressure) i did the above to finish it off.. as I added a votex midconsole to it (oil/voltage/time gauges) the newer oil gauges might work of the signal created by the oem oil pressure/temp sender.

so you'll have to look at what is needed for your gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've looked on Tweeks, read elsewhere they did a specific kit, couldn't find what I was looking for (probably a me issue than a Tweeks issue tbf)..

I might just plumb into the spare hole and accept its reading a little high..
 

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Pressure is pressure. It cannot be amplified through an orifice (without mad science). I haven't checked the filter housing, but if the blank is pre-filter you'll get the headloss over the filter which would be measured 'engine side' and your gauge reading 'pre-filter side'. The pressure loss will be immeasurable.

Also the sensor there is pressure, the temperature sensor is part of the level sensor on the sump.

Never needed to see voltage, check it once, make sure it's okay and leave it. The warning light is enough for me. Gauges for me are AFR, boost, oil pressure. Oil temp doesn't really bother me, I don't drive it hard enough for prolonged enough for it to be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
*Pressure is pressure. It cannot be amplified through an orifice (without mad science). I haven't checked the filter housing, but if the blank is pre-filter you'll get the headloss over the filter which would be measured 'engine side' and your gauge reading 'pre-filter side'. The pressure loss will be immeasurable.

**Also the sensor there is pressure, the temperature sensor is part of the level sensor on the sump.

***Never needed to see voltage, check it once, make sure it's okay and leave it. The warning light is enough for me. Gauges for me are AFR, boost, oil pressure. Oil temp doesn't really bother me, I don't drive it hard enough for prolonged enough for it to be an issue.
*It's something to do with where the hole is.. on top of the filter housing gives a slightly high reading according to people who dabble in these dark arts.

**So why would people add another sender and not just use what's there? Not disagreeing coz I don't know, just makes no sense.
Actually... does that mean that I can get all this data (well, boost and oil pressure) from the odb2 port?

***I only really wanted boost and oil pressure but I don't like clutter. And I don't really like them taking up half a head unit slot or on the steering column.. a-pillar would be ok but it'd have to be custom made so it'd look aftermarket.
So a multi gauge tucked away in the corner would be ideal... and the only one with boost and oil pressure also has oil temp and voltage (I quite like volt gauges too, early warning for alternator issues notwithstanding)..
 

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I've never looked into it that much, but if that's the case it'll be because the blank is pre-filter. Blanking plug might just be used as a plug when they core through for drilling, not sure on internal design. You'd be arguing over fractions of a PSI IMO, unless your filter causes a restriction.

The oil temperature sensor goes to the cluster but it reports it in bits and isn't used for anything, not on the MK4 anyway. The ColourMFA can convert it to temperature but expense.

Boost can be gathered from OBD2 but the sample rate is so slow it's not worth measuring. ME7logger was never ported to Arduino otherwise I'd have been keen to build a display for it (free AFR gauge too).

Oil pressure is a pressure switch, not sensor per say, so it doesn't report actual pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Too complicated..
My history is with old engines, with carburettors - rebuilt my first Essex V6 in 1988.... anything newer just fills me with dread. Especially turbos.
 

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AFAIK you can get the data the car collects on the MFA to be shown with OBD2 and Torque-pro but as said before it'll be slow and therefor not that accurate... but it'll do if you don't want to spend money and you already got a working torqque pro setup on your andriod device.

And i am correct in thinking this is all for the skoda octavia vrs right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
AFAIK you can get the data the car collects on the MFA to be shown with OBD2 and Torque-pro but as said before it'll be slow and therefor not that accurate... but it'll do if you don't want to spend money and you already got a working torqque pro setup on your andriod device.

And i am correct in thinking this is all for the skoda octavia vrs right?
Yeah it's for the vRS... I post here because I get more help here and it's Mk4 platform so kinda on-topic...
Its not so much about spending money, seems this is replacing the old Mk4 as the money pit.. only we started with less issues so it's mostly upgrades, I'm just trying to spend it a bit more wisely - less wastage (currently gritting my teeth because Kirsty gave my W8 interior light away with the Mk4 and, even on Aliexpress, they've gone up in price)

What I really need is somewhere off the road to work on it, would make my life so much easier (and save me some spannering costs too).

I'll chuck a sender into the spare hole on the filter housing.. seems like the least confusing option tbf.
 

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it's just data that it pulls from the ecu... so the data is there(don't know how fast it pulls it from the ecu) but that info should be available from the manufacturer.
 

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The pressure switch is just a switch, the ECU cannot see pressure. ECU can see boost (MAP), AFR, oil temperature. It supports CAN IIRC, so refresh rate will be acceptable. I'd rather a gauge though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Chaps.. back to this.. just boost though.
I have a spare nipple on the inlet manifold, apparently ideal for boost gauge plumbing - no teeing, just push the pipe on.
Buts it's a 10mm ID pipe and boost gauge pipes seem to use vacuum hose... 3mm?

How do I plumb to the 10mm nipple chaps?

(Pmsl at nipple chaps)
 
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