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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just inspecting my turbo for failure - disconnected the actuator and the gate it moves has resistance and does not move smoothly.

Is it meant to move smoothly and freely? Just interested to see what has failed as it looks alright turbine wise.

Cheers

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it should move freely without to much resistance... the only resistance you should be able to feel is the one of the spring, and that should be smooth... but when disconnected the lever it connects to on the turbo is for the vnt mechanism and that should be smooth also you should be able to move that about 10mm,from it's resting position to fully open and back, without it being hard to do so...

if it has any resistance it means the VNT mechanism is stuck and since you got it off the car the best solution is to split it and clean it up, in most cases a stuck VNT mechanism can literally be diagnosed as a turbo failure, while it can just be cleaned up. it just means splitting the turbo and cleaning the mechanism... and if you split it you can use carb cleaner or a foaming ovencleaner to clean the parts... I would use carb cleaner and a brush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, ah i've bought a replacement turbo but will experiment with this one then to learn abit more about it. I can't see anywhere else it has failed - turbines are spinnning, bit of play on intercooler side. The exhaust side turbine feels a little rougher and is sooty. Will be interesting to compare to the replacement when it gets delivered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
New tubro (used) arrived today - much smoother on both the exhuast turbine and the actuator arm. Actuator arm itself is different - it is metal to the gate that it moves where as my one on the car was plastic
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Last night I was comparing my replacement turbo and it is different. The new one is a kkk whereas as the old is a garnett.

I've read around and can see the kkk was on different cars - polo, ibiza, some passats, Leon etc. So assume it will work fine in mine. My car is stock for mapping but do plan a mild c160hp map as I deleted the egr a while back and want it out of the file.

One question though - the intercooler side is rotated differently. I won't know until I fit but is it possible to spin the Kkk around so the intercooler side is in the same position? How do you do that?

My car has an uprated smic and hard pipes and I remember the original one being a squeeze to get the pipe on so maybe this one will be better.
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yeah just loosen the bolts on that side you can turn it around until it's in the same position, than bolt it down again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks!

Yeha the triple KKK was on the pd130 but was on the cars with less engine room - polo, Sharan.

I didnt realise there were different turbos on the pd130 and probs would have gone for the garratt if I knew. The car is just a daily run around that I look after - no big plans for it.

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just by looking at the turbo's though it seems the new one is smaller at both sides and i just noticed it... i would deffo split the original turbo and clean it up... than test to see if the problem is gone, and honestly i would've done that before buying a replacement
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah I'll take it apart for learnings but the intercooler side on the Garret has a wobbly shaft as well.

I've been reading up on the KKKs and took a few measurements of the bore sizes as the whole casting is visibly thinner than the garrett - the diameter of the exhuast bores are the same on each as is both turbine inputs/outputs. I can't be sure what the measurements are inside the snail bits but assume fairly similar with thinner castings, perhaps a touch smaller as the KKK is known to spool up faster but not be as strong at top end - perfect for my driving.
 
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there is always some play on a used turbo it doesn't mean it's gone... but if it has excessive play and has clearly damaged the impellers and housing than you can either replace the internals (CHRA's aren't that expensive plus they come with a new VNT mechanism and should be balanced already) or just get a garret if you plan on pushing for more top end... but that is completely up to your budget and if you actually want more power ( stage 1 remap would be a very good improvement around 170/190bhp)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cheers. I'll keep the garrett and will probably rebuild it for learnings but the car isn't going to get any major modifying done - its really just a 2nd car for school and shop runs. I may add a Black smoke map to 160 but only to properly delete the egr and that's it.

I spend all my free money on my other vws - corrado vr6, corrado 16v, mk3 16v and a mk2 8v gti - couple of them are resto projects so limited funds for anything else.

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