[patchrico]

Thought I would just post some pics of the 42 Draft Design Pod install.

This just focuses on the route of the boost tube from engine bay to interior and actually attaching the pod on to the A pillar. (This is for AGU engine). The boost tube route through the bulkhead will obviously depend on the position of the grommet you choose.

I chose to run the tube into the cable box (this has a spare grommet) which is under the windscreen cowling. This leads straight into the interior cavity behind the fuse box cover. I used some convoluted sleeve loom to encase the boost tubing and installed a grommet leading from the engine bay (used a hole punch for this). Although this involves a little work, the result looks very OM.

A member on here used the same route (I think it was Pope) and I also found a guide on the Vortex forum, although in that case in was for a ICE cable run. The link to this is http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1835153

The pictures at the end are just of the Pod attached to the A pillar. I included these because I used heavy duty Velcro (B & Q store) and this works very well and creates a tight fit. The bonus being that you can easily remove the pod if you have to.

(nb. The 1/4 inch convoluted sleeve can be obtained from this link to Europa Specialist Spares -- useful stuff if anyones interested https://secure.visav.co.uk/avshop/products.asp?getcats=true&cat=24&scat=56&sscat=26 )

Anyways : []

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL17/1625480/3141791/95878263.jpg

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL17/1625480/3141791/95878258.jpghttp://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL17/1625480/3141791/95426645.jpg

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[David]

Looks good, how long did it take you?

 

[patchrico]

Guess it took around 1 hour just taking it fairly easy (and cleaning all the crap away from under the windscreen cowling). Already had a spare feed set up for the illumination though, from previous W8 light and Bora vent mod.

Made the boost tubing connection to the FPR --- Only problem I had, right at the end of the install, was that when fitting the T piece, the existing tubing was perished. So although the T piece is secure for now, I will replace the old tubing in the next couple of days. Don't want to take any chances on a leak.

Other than that fairly easy to do.

Just need to understand what the boost gauge is telling me now []

 

[David]

That's not too bad, never took the A pillar covers off so was unsure how long it would take, do they come off easily?

 

[patchrico]

That's not too bad, never took the A pillar covers off so was unsure how long it would take, do they come off easily?

Yeah -- just ease back the door seal away from the edge of the A pillar trim then get your fingers round the top section on the trim and pull it towards you. Might need to give it a bit of a yank, but it will come off and snap back on easy enough.

 

[leefrizz]

I was also thinking of using velcro - exactly where did you put it cos I can't make it out on the pictures?

I'll nip into B&Q and get some at the weekend, about how much is it? I think I'll do it exactly like you did!

 

[patchrico]

I was also thinking of using velcro - exactly where did you put it cos I can't make it out on the pictures?

I'll nip into B&Q and get some at the weekend, about how much is it? I think I'll do it exactly like you did!

Look at the eighth picture down in the sequence above. This is the back of the A pillar trim. The white strips you can see going across is the Velcro stuck on the back of the A pillar. This is the 'hook' side of the Velcro. The 'loop' side (furry) is stuck on the back of the Pod fabric tabs which are then pulled tightly over.

The velcro I used is the 'heavy duty' stick on stuff (sold in B&Q and Halfrauds -about ?4.00) as this has extra strong adhesive. ---- Worked for me anyway.

Good Luck

 

[leefrizz]

I've done mine exactly like this and it works a treat.

Haven't insulated the boost tubing in any way but I assume it's heat resistant anyway??

I might get some of that sleeving just in case.

Only problem I had/got is that I couldn't get the windscreen cowling back on properly - at least I think it's not on properly - I can't remeber a gap being in between that and the windcreen before - and there's about a 3 mil space now and no amount of pushing/gently banging it is making it fit closer!

What should my more or less standard AGU be boosting at? When idling it's sitting at around -19PSI, then 1st and 2nd cogs peak at about 8PSI 3rd and 4th at 9-10PSI and I haven't fully tested 5th yet. Anyone know if this is normal?

 

[clkxp23]

I've done mine exactly like this and it works a treat.

Haven't insulated the boost tubing in any way but I assume it's heat resistant anyway??

I might get some of that sleeving just in case.

Only problem I had/got is that I couldn't get the windscreen cowling back on properly - at least I think it's not on properly - I can't remeber a gap being in between that and the windcreen before - and there's about a 3 mil space now and no amount of pushing/gently banging it is making it fit closer!

What should my more or less standard AGU be boosting at? When idling it's sitting at around -19PSI, then 1st and 2nd cogs peak at about 8PSI 3rd and 4th at 9-10PSI and I haven't fully tested 5th yet. Anyone know if this is normal?

I did mine two weeks ago, you need to give the windscreen cowl a good bang and it will go in.

The boost guage readings you are getting is excactly what I get as well.

 

[patchrico]

I've done mine exactly like this and it works a treat.

Haven't insulated the boost tubing in any way but I assume it's heat resistant anyway??

I might get some of that sleeving just in case.

Only problem I had/got is that I couldn't get the windscreen cowling back on properly - at least I think it's not on properly - I can't remeber a gap being in between that and the windcreen before - and there's about a 3 mil space now and no amount of pushing/gently banging it is making it fit closer!

What should my more or less standard AGU be boosting at? When idling it's sitting at around -19PSI, then 1st and 2nd cogs peak at about 8PSI 3rd and 4th at 9-10PSI and I haven't fully tested 5th yet. Anyone know if this is normal?

I did mine two weeks ago, you need to give the windscreen cowl a good bang and it will go in.

The boost guage readings you are getting is excactly what I get as well.

Yep - you do need to give the cowl a good whack with the heel of the hand directly downwards so that the lip seals all the way along, but mine does 'appear' a couple of mm further away than before. But its OK.

I've got a N75J valve, Samco TIP, and K03sport, and Milltek DP but my boost figures are pretty much the same as yours, and are expected for standard AGU (as far as I know) until the car is chipped/remapped.

(mind you, just changed over to a forge divertor valve and the boost readings became more constant)

Got to get this thing jabbered so that I can watch that needle hit 20 or so. []

Word of warning though - although that pod may be in your line of sight, don't spend to long looking at it wondering what your turbo is up to -- as I'm sure thats the reason I hit that car up the a?$e last week.[:$]

 

[clkxp23]

I had mine chipped last week, the boost gauge now hits the 18psi.

the car feels good, but my milltek exhaust spoils it a bit with the droning sound I get at

about 70-80mph.[8o|]

 

[zekegti]

Word of warning though - although that pod my be in your line of sight, don't spend to long looking at it wondering what your turbo is up to -- as I'm sure thats the reason I hit that car up the a?$e last week.[:$]

Ain't that the truth

 

[clkxp23]

I had few close misses as well....

 

[patchrico]

I had few close misses as well....

They should come with a warning ! [8-|]

 

[180Turbo]

I've just started doing mie, have fir the gauge & pod & wired
it up (pipe connected too), but can't decide on how to get the pipe
through the bulkhead.

Car is drive by wire (not cable), and i can't find the 'spare grommet'
behing the accelerator pedal, so will go with putting it though the
electric box.

Only problem is, how to i get to it?

I removed the long thin spnge and tried getting the windscreen cowling
off, but the wipers are in the way! I removed the wiper clips and took
of the 13mm nuts, but the wipers still wouldn't come off.

Am i doing something wrong?

I also couldn't see any other grommet holes through the coweling to the
engine bay (like in these pics), did someone cut a new hole?

 

[leefrizz]

you need to wiggle and pull the wipers quite a bit to get them off - they might be a little bit rusted up but with a bit of careful force they'll come off eventually!!

 

[180Turbo]

as t****ing it hard and they wouldn't come off!!!

i'll have to put a bit of wd40 on it to loosen it then!

Shame i've got all this way and getting stuck on silly things like this!

Motor is only 2 years old so dont' fancy breaking it!

Cheers.

 

[s-star]

Boost gauges should come up with a head up display on the wind screen!!!!!!!

Now theres an idea not to be missed!! is it possiable?

 

[thegooner]

as t****ing it hard and they wouldn't come off!!!

i'll have to put a bit of wd40 on it to loosen it then!

Shame i've got all this way and getting stuck on silly things like this!

Motor is only 2 years old so dont' fancy breaking it!

Cheers.

i found it easier to lower the bonnetand lift the wipers up, llike you were changing the blades. and wiggle them up and down till they came off.

i used a electrical box fitting for mine, compression tightens the hole up. i got them form work but b&q sell them for around a £1. also meant that i could feed 2 extra wires through for the oil temp and pressure senders. i also used flexible condicut but 20mm stuff with a fitting on the end for going through the top of the bulkhead to the lecy box

 

[driven_dream]

i did exactly the same install as this, but ended up with an EPC light and minimal power when driving. any ideas why??