312mm carrier torque settings

1577 Views 15 Replies 6 Participants Last post by gerrywac, May 3, 2015

dsgnr

Discussion Starter · May 1, 2015 (Edited by Moderator)

Hello,

Is anyone able to give me to torque settings to do a 288 to 312mm brake upgrade.

I need the settings for:
Splash guards
Carrier to calliper guide pins
Carrier to hub

I think that's all I need?!

I have looked around but either couldn't find all the figures I need or varying figures.

Thanks in advance

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

sootpig

· #2 · May 2, 2015

Splash guards - snug
Carrier to calliper guide pins - snug
Carrier to hub - tight.

...Yes I do own a torque wrench, no I never use it.

Reactions: 1

MonK-E

· #3 · May 2, 2015

Haha spot on bud :Y:

I must admit I only really use my torque wrench for certain parts eg. Engine/gearbox internals and subframe mounting.
The rest is done by my calibrated arm torque

Reactions: 1

MonK-E

· #4 · May 2, 2015

Here you go :Y:

CC587275-E3C9-4412-9795-BB7F840BE42F_zps

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dsgnr

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 2, 2015

Thanks mate that's a great help. Where's that from? An online Haynes?

used-to-own-a-vr6

· #6 · May 2, 2015

I think its PDF copy of the Bentley manual. Quite expensive to buy. I had one for my mk3 and it was a great manual, it's about 900 pages long!

As for torques, I bought a torque wrench for doing my brakes and used the settings given. Second time I did my brakes my 'arm torque' had been calibrated so used that!

Reactions: 1

MonK-E

· #7 · May 2, 2015

Yeah it's from the Bentley manual, shame some of the info in there is specific for the US cars. But on the whole it's a bloody good manual, far better than the crappy Haynes

dsgnr

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 3, 2015 (Edited by Moderator)

Thanks guys. I couldn't torque the carrier to hub bolts up all the way as I couldn't get a good angle on it!

Brakes fitted now though! Took a bit longer as I put the pads on the wrong side and then forgot to put the calliper spring back on.

Not overly impress by my new braking power. Yes they bite sooner but I think that's due to actually having a pad there now but still have to fully press the pedal down to get anything from it and it feels very spongy. I still have the fluid to change so hoping that'll sort the problem.

Does anyone know whether the brake pad sensor snaps off when it wears down? The brake sensor cable looked as though it had been cut and nothing on the pad. The sensor light came on only a few days a go but wasn't sure whether it snaps or not

gerrywac

· #9 · May 3, 2015

dsgnr said:
Thanks guys. I couldn't torque the carrier to hub bolts up all the way as I couldn't get a good angle on it!

Brakes fitted now though! Took a bit longer as I put the pads on the wrong side and then forgot to put the calliper spring back on.

Not overly impress by my new braking power. Yes they bite sooner but I think that's due to actually having a pad there now but still have to fully press the pedal down to get anything from it and it feels very spongy. I still have the fluid to change so hoping that'll sort the problem.

Does anyone know whether the brake pad sensor snaps off when it wears down? The brake sensor cable looked as though it had been cut and nothing on the pad. The sensor light came on only a few days a go but wasn't sure whether it snaps or not

I would be interested to know what you were expecting from your new brakes IMHO I don't want to be hurtled toward the screen the moment my foot brushes the pedal i want smooth progression and don't mind if you have to give a firm shove to get max stop. What I do want to know is that the effort required will be consistent during a long period of braking and that it will be pretty much the same after 10, 20 or more stops when the pads and discs get hot

On the pad warning the indicator pad with the connector has a twin flex shorted together buried into the pad material and the shorting link gets worn away to go open circuit and trigger the warning light. This is supposed to happen around 4mm pad remaining, the VW spec is 2mm minimum so you should get a reasonable warning to get them chacked and changed provided your callipers are working correctly

dsgnr

Discussion Starter · #10 · May 3, 2015

Well in terms of braking I have been in numerous cars which was quite sharp and you'd stop quickly from 30-40mph if braking hard. Mine at the moment you need to fully press the brake in and it'll slow down quickly but it'll still be a car or twos length which is in my opinion quite a distance!

Don't know whether I'm being too critical with it as this is my first car so not sure what's right or not

mattp1983

· #11 · May 3, 2015

They arent over assisted on a mk4 like on newer cars so they feel less 'sharp' remember your using the same pad and caliper as before (assuming you came from 288mm brakes? If not if you fitted calipers are they pressure bled correctly?)

The braking is essentially the same as the 288s but slightly greater clamping force due to carrier spacing on disk, the difference is better heat dissipation, so you get brakes that fade less and stop from higher speeds more safely.

Day to day town driving there is very little difference. When you really need them though, you can tell the difference

gerrywac

· #12 · May 3, 2015 (Edited by Moderator)

Even the standard braking system should be capable of locking the wheels or operating the ABS system with a firm press of the pedal below maximum effort. How quickly you stop after that is down to the friction of the tyres with the road and/or the operation of the ABS system

If things are working correctly even the best brake system possible won't stop you any quicker in a single stop with the same tyres and road conditions, you can only stop quicker in the same circumstances with wider and/or grippier tyres

if you can't lock up or get the ABS kicking in with a firm shove then there's something wrong with the brakes or the ABS. Sponginess is usually air in the system and in quantity it compresses and can prevent full pressure being applied to the pads/discs.

Changing the fluid only will not affect sponginess on a single stop the brakes need bleeding properly and that is best done with a pressure bleeder at least and ideally VCDS to activate the ABS pump. The ABS pump makes it difficult to bleed air properly using gravity and pedal pumping

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dsgnr

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 3, 2015

I fitted new discs and pads on the fronts. I haven't bled yet as it started to rain so I'll give that a go and see how I get on.

I know the abs works from snow etc but have never locked them up when having to brake hard

gerrywac

· #14 · May 3, 2015

pads and discs will need bedding in for max grip and if they're not bled that won't help. What size and type tyres are you running as that will affect stopping distance and when the brakes lock

You should be able to lock up even with decent tyres and road conditions

dsgnr

Discussion Starter · #15 · May 3, 2015

I have standard 16" montys with Bfgoodrich g-grips on the front which I was told were good at the time. Didn't take the calipers off so they're the same.

The brake fluid has never been changed since I've owned the car which is about 5 years so definitely well overdue now

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gerrywac

· #16 · May 3, 2015

dsgnr said:
I have standard 16" montys with Bfgoodrich g-grips on the front which I was told were good at the time. Didn't take the calipers off so they're the same.

The brake fluid has never been changed since I've owned the car which is about 5 years so definitely well overdue now

Nothing special tyre wise

The fluid will be well shot and liable to vapour locking and internal corrosion in the callipers and cylinders BUT you won't get vapour locking with a single stop so air still looks a contender why you can't lock the wheels or activate ABS in normal conditions

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