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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have been away for a while since I sold my V5 Bora a few years ago. Before that I owned a slow 2.0 Bora and a 1.4 Golf MK4.

I have the itch again to be back to the MKIVs scene, but this time I am looking for a 2.8 4motion MKIV (preferably a Bora).

Am I mad? All these cars will be near 20 years old, what will be the common issues?
  1. DO they have CAT converter? Will the exhaust CAT be dead by now, replacing one with the OEM one will be expensive (I replaced my 2.0 one before).
  2. How will the AWD hold up? Is there any issues or as long as its is maintained (oil refresh) it should last?
  3. How easy is it to get part now?
  4. Rust? Front wings easy to replace?
  5. Real life mpg? This wont be my daily drive, I have 2 other cars. So not critical but read mixed reviews from online. So want to get a more realistic figures from members here.
  6. Any other "old" car issues to be aware of?
Thanks in advance, and good to come back to this forum...
 

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Yes, and they're expensive. If they need replaced it's an expensive job labour wise too.

Fine. Earth cable breaks, pumps die.

Parts are fine.

Wings rust. Easy to replace, bumper off.

Low 20s.

Door locks.
 

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Am I mad? All these cars will be near 20 years old, what will be the common issues?
  1. DO they have CAT converter? Will the exhaust CAT be dead by now, replacing one with the OEM one will be expensive (I replaced my 2.0 one before).
  2. How will the AWD hold up? Is there any issues or as long as its is maintained (oil refresh) it should last?
  3. How easy is it to get part now?
  4. Rust? Front wings easy to replace?
  5. Real life mpg? This wont be my daily drive, I have 2 other cars. So not critical but read mixed reviews from online. So want to get a more realistic figures from members here.
  6. Any other "old" car issues to be aware of?
Hahahahahahahahahaha!

1 - Yes. Probably. Price is dependent on the price of the metals inside when made but can get one from £500 to £1200.
2 - Marvellously if they're looked after and rubbish if not. Won't work if your braking system has issues but that doesn't mean it's failed.
3 - Depends on what part/s you need. OEM items are now going to be difficult unless it's been used in later model VWs but some non-OEM parts aren't always in stock. Anything engine related internally could be 6 weeks wait, air con pipework is a no, timing chains ok if you have the BDE engine code, suspension parts same/next day, wheel hubs and front wheel bearings are fine but the rears no longer exist as I got the last 2, wiring looms no, etc... Name an item, I'll tell you.
4 - Yes. Yes.
5 - MPG depends on the condition the car is currently in rather than driving style. Mine's currently at 26mpg average. Have been known to get 33/34mpg on a few occasions. Once I actually had nearly 40 after a trip to London and back....
6 - Electrical gremlins in boot and engine bay. Rust on the rear boot handle. Leaking sun roofs. Sticky locks/faulty door look modules. Damp. Windscreen seals leaking. Master cylinder leaks. Clutch pedal breaking. Occasional ABS sensor breaking. Undertray scraping. Broken exhaust manifolds. Power steering leaks. Steering racks with play in them. Seeping timing chain seals. Window regulator problems. Windows dropping. Secondary air pump failing. Vacuum leaks. Rear washer motor failing. Rattling trim pieces. Sticking callipers. Coolant thermostat housing breaking. Failing cooling fans. Sticky indicator stalk. Melting fuse box on top of the battery. Alternator breaking. Aux belts slacking. The v6 is no more prone to these problems than any other vw. It's just compounded by the fact that it's a v6 and not a 1.6...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hahahahahahahahahaha!

1 - Yes. Probably. Price is dependent on the price of the metals inside when made but can get one from £500 to £1200.
2 - Marvellously if they're looked after and rubbish if not. Won't work if your braking system has issues but that doesn't mean it's failed.
3 - Depends on what part/s you need. OEM items are now going to be difficult unless it's been used in later model VWs but some non-OEM parts aren't always in stock. Anything engine related internally could be 6 weeks wait, air con pipework is a no, timing chains ok if you have the BDE engine code, suspension parts same/next day, wheel hubs and front wheel bearings are fine but the rears no longer exist as I got the last 2, wiring looms no, etc... Name an item, I'll tell you.
4 - Yes. Yes.
5 - MPG depends on the condition the car is currently in rather than driving style. Mine's currently at 26mpg average. Have been known to get 33/34mpg on a few occasions. Once I actually had nearly 40 after a trip to London and back....
6 - Electrical gremlins in boot and engine bay. Rust on the rear boot handle. Leaking sun roofs. Sticky locks/faulty door look modules. Damp. Windscreen seals leaking. Master cylinder leaks. Clutch pedal breaking. Occasional ABS sensor breaking. Undertray scraping. Broken exhaust manifolds. Power steering leaks. Steering racks with play in them. Seeping timing chain seals. Window regulator problems. Windows dropping. Secondary air pump failing. Vacuum leaks. Rear washer motor failing. Rattling trim pieces. Sticking callipers. Coolant thermostat housing breaking. Failing cooling fans. Sticky indicator stalk. Melting fuse box on top of the battery. Alternator breaking. Aux belts slacking. The v6 is no more prone to these problems than any other vw. It's just compounded by the fact that it's a v6 and not a 1.6...
Thanks for the details pal. Got a bit discouraged now…haha

I am used to keeping old cars. Got a 26 years LandCruiser as my weekender. Some old car are fun to work with some are complicated…

Nearly 40mpg?! That’s unheard of.

Is the 3.2 lump actually very similar to the 2.8?
 

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Mate, I've written up my work here on V6 2.8 Bora 2003. BDE engine:


Not that different to DerPanzer, with few extras.

There's actually lots of DIYs and advice on this forum that I reckon anything can be repaired. I've bought almost all parts new. Though not all OEM. The air con motors I got second hand as new weren't available.

I'm loving driving the V6.
 

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mwah its basically chain guides (chain rattle) and the rest of the mk4 golf quirks... nothing to be worried about to be honest and all can be repaired granted most parts aren't available OEM but a whole load can be bought from specialist sources ( breakers and tuning companies) If i would have a vr6 it would be getting a complete engine and suspension overhaul and as soon as that is done it would get a form of Forced induction to release that hidden extra torque and hp.
 

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Depends on your engine code:

BDE was made as the basis for the r32 block.
AQP/AUE are modified based on the older style vr6.
and all of them still have the infamous hotspots... meaning they all want regular oil changes, but nothing new and something you need to keep in mind when owning one. you could adapt the manufacturers service intervals but I found that all the V engines do well with a higher oil change interval.
 

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Golf V6 4Motion 2.8l VR6
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Supercharger...Good! Turbo ....Better!

Finding someone to remap either properly... hard!
Personally prefer supercharging as you can keep the awesome oem intake manifold, really not a fan of how the turbo intakes look. Big upside to turbocharging is the potential power from the vr6, supercharging is certainly more mundane. Also can't find many cheap supercharger kits for the 24v vr6 anymore, however there's a rotex kit for the vr6 I've seen that has everything you need and promises around 600bhp for £5000. Much better value for money than the other supercharging kits I've seen kicking about.
 

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the promise of 600bhp of the rotrex is is crankshaft power, add in the powertrain losses and you'll be looking at max 510 bhp... that is if it makes the 600bhp to begin with (i used to be heavily involved in the tuning of the VW v6 engines and have used the rotex supercharger on 3 builds- not my cars though so no pictures of said builds) but it keeps the looks as you said... if you don't go for the max power setup.... (see the PS part) also the best kit that uses the rotex supercharger is from TVS-engineering in the Netherlands (aka the vr6 specialist) but there are loads of things that need to be done to get that sort of HP from a supercharger no matter how good the supercharger is... but the rotex supercharger is amongst one of the best especially since it has it's own oil reservoir. so no need to tap into the oil sump unlike a turbo kit, or the other superchargers...

ps any v6 with the variable intake will suffer from the extra pressure especially if you go for the max bhp setups... meaning you'll endup taking that nice looking intake off, to replace it with something similar to the turbo intakes.. or you spend a good amount of your hard earned to get the special intake created by TVS engineering (looks a lot like the oem intake but without the variable intake flaps but made so the airflow actually is better) so that defeats the whole object of choosing the supercharger route.

and yes i can actually say: been there, done that.
 

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the promise of 600bhp of the rotrex is is crankshaft power, add in the powertrain losses and you'll be looking at max 510 bhp... that is if it makes the 600bhp to begin with (i used to be heavily involved in the tuning of the VW v6 engines and have used the rotex supercharger on 3 builds- not my cars though so no pictures of said builds) but it keeps the looks as you said... if you don't go for the max power setup.... (see the PS part) also the best kit that uses the rotex supercharger is from TVS-engineering in the Netherlands (aka the vr6 specialist) but there are loads of things that need to be done to get that sort of HP from a supercharger no matter how good the supercharger is... but the rotex supercharger is amongst one of the best especially since it has it's own oil reservoir. so no need to tap into the oil sump unlike a turbo kit, or the other superchargers...

ps any v6 with the variable intake will suffer from the extra pressure especially if you go for the max bhp setups... meaning you'll endup taking that nice looking intake off, to replace it with something similar to the turbo intakes.. or you spend a good amount of your hard earned to get the special intake created by TVS engineering (looks a lot like the oem intake but without the variable intake flaps but made so the airflow actually is better) so that defeats the whole object of choosing the supercharger route.

and yes i can actually say: been there, done that.
Ah very interesting. Was looking into forced induction a while ago but was put off by all the kits being far too expensive or pushing way too much HP. Was more looking for a small supercharger to just give a small boost in performance but couldn't find much in the way of that.
 

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The rotex will be the one for the job... just get that kit with the mounting cradle and belt kit... you can always add a smaller pulley, bigger injectors and a FMIC later on... it'll do the job quite nicely. You'll need a good tuner though to set it up right... and totally need one that does it on a rolling road.
 

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The rotex will be the one for the job... just get that kit with the mounting cradle and belt kit... you can always add a smaller pulley, bigger injectors and a FMIC later on... it'll do the job quite nicely. You'll need a good tuner though to set it up right... and totally need one rhat does it on a rolling road.
Yea, getting the tuner will be the difficult part. Mind you there's a tuning company nearby that are registered TVS engineering dealers, could see if they're able to tune it correctly. Anyway definitely a project for another time, still plenty of things that need addressed before I even consider forced induction
 

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If they are TVS engineering dealers than they should have access to the right maps created by the owner that runs the shop in the Netherlands... don't know if he does remote mapping though but i've had him do it for one of the builds i did. But this was before they changed the name to TVS engineering, and in the end that same car ended up in the hands of Jeroen Dik, and with that map it was putting 435 bhp at the wheels. all standard hardware and a fmic with a smaller pulley.
 
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