Cleaned the throttle body & now the idle seems lumpier??

 

You need to get the throttle body re-aligned by vagcom or drive around 50 miles and that should sort it's led out

 

You need to get the throttle body re-aligned by vagcom or drive around 50 miles and that should sort itself out

 

forgot to add, I re-aligned it with vagcom, it has since settled down a bit but still is a little bit lumpy. I took it for a drive and it still seems a little hesitant when flooring it.

 

Maf mate.... I had other problems as well but it was my maf. Usually if you unplug it it should run better mine did nothing first 4 or 5 times I unplugged it. When I installed an mbc I unplugged the maf and the n75 to see if I could figure it out... No point increasing boost if ya not right in first place after all. Straight away run like a dream plugged in n75 nothing changed, plugged in maf and back to being horrible and lumpy. Defo worth a try!

 

when ya change temp sensor did you check the thermostat? I did just temp sensor problems persisted changed thermostat as well and it got better. So I figured if I ever do it again I'll do both - only cost 25 odd quid from ecp or gsf and got some g12 aswell in that price.

Also could be maf mate.... I had other problems as well but it was my maf doing exactly what yours is. Usually if you unplug it it should run better mine did nothing first 4 or 5 times I unplugged it. When I installed an mbc I unplugged the maf and the n75 to see if I could figure it out... No point increasing boost if ya not right in first place after all. Straight away run like a dream plugged in n75 nothing changed, plugged in maf and back to being horrible and lumpy lazy car. Defo worth a try!

 

CEL came on today, So I read the codes and got more YAY!!

17705 / P1297

16795 / P0411 - SAI Incorrect flow, Sounds like a hoover when cold, so if I repair this will the code go away or is it something else?

17545 / p1137 - Fuel Trim Bank 1 (add) System too rich

16486 - p0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor (G60) Signal Too Low.

Now I have cleaned the MAF with contact cleaner and it made no difference, when disconnecting it, it also makes pretty much no difference.

 

Does it change and idle ok if ya unplug it while it's being lumpy? Some do not drive right with it unplugged but it shoul idle better

It Took me removing both plugs on the n75 and maf to get it to stop being lumpy then plugged n75 back in and it was ok, soon as I put maf back on it reverted to horrible again. Worth a try and takes seconds.

Sai delete or mend it one or the other.

.

 

And fuel trim I think could also be caused by maf because it thinks it got more or less air than it should. Not certain but I'm sure that makes sense

 

Reserved MAF from Euro car parts, Will cost about £70 with the forum discount and returning old MAF.

So will wait and see, I will repair the SAI the weekend.

 

Mate really honestly don't buy ya maf or coil packs anywhere other then vw. they are usually rrubbish this is my problem. I've read numerous times of people having problems with them. ive even heard of brand new ecp ones needing to be changed 3 and 4 x And then most people just end up going stealers and buying genuine. Think it's 80odd quid exchange with your old one and it's genuine vw from themselves well worth the extra tenner imho.

Most other things your ok with but maf n coils always go stealers little bit more you would never regret it.

 

I will give it a go, if it fails I will go to the dealers after :S. It's a lot easier to call in ECP after work for me.

 

Aye anno what your saying dude just warning of the probability of it failing early possibly even nearly straight away. and the thing is with the cheap ones sometimes it might not even make your fault go away even though its new. Golfs are funny fookers at the best of times.... Lol

 

Well It didn't make much of a difference, But the CEL has gone, Today though when putting my foot down the car was very hesitant and then picked up after a few seconds, I have noticed that the Rocker cover gasket is leaking so I will be getting that done tomorrow hopefully.

But with cleaning the throttle and the new maf my idle has calmed down a hell of a lot, and only seems to fluctuate a little when Idling now

 

See for that fault I'd go with new temp sensor thermostat and maf on mine. Does your temp guage level at 90 relatively quick and stay put no matter what the weather?

Possible air leak somewhere? Pcv system I know gives lumpy idle. Did ya check the ross-tech site by typing the number in the search box? that gives you suggestions on what to cHange for certain errors.

 

no, the temp gauge doesn't sit at 90 all the time, so that appears to be fine, I will get the rocker gasket done because it is leaking and then check the PCV system.

And also that code hasn't appeared for a couple of days now. ATM no codes.

 

No mate its the opposite. it should pretty much never move. Your temp sender is faulty I bet ya even if it is nearly new. Go buy a vw one and try that. Change the thermostat while your there I'll bet that makes it better. Since I did mine it take about 2 miles to get to 90 and never moves. Mine used to go up and down before and It was faulty. Changed both bits for my own peace of mind. The Mrs car started doing it this week too. Changing hers Saturday. Hers sat bang still before as well that how I came to the conclusion mine was screwed. The reason it's a bit lumpy and your gettin mixture errors is car changes the fuel ratio depending on temps if it's not right it doesn't put the correct amount of fuel in.

 

The temp guage SHOULD stay at 90. If its in traffic that it sits there are goes on a run get a new stat.

 

[quote user="craigolfmk4"]

The temp guage SHOULD stay at 90. If its in traffic that it sits there are goes on a run get a new stat.

[/quote]

that's what I just said lol and I also said about the thermostat at the top of the page

 

I would say the temp gauge is fine but the thermostat is faulty so I will get this replaced.

 

if its moving up n down and not staying bang on 90 then one or both of those two things are buggered mate im sorry but its just how it is...

Its you car at the end of the day like i'm just trying to help you out with ya issue. Having had it myself on my car and the Mrs' in the last 3 weeks I am pretty sure it will sort your problem. AND... someone else has even confirmed it shouldn't move. they literally go straight to 90 and don't move from there at all when they reading right.

 

also this is what ross tech say....

17705/P1297/004759 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)

Possible Symptoms

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
• Power Loss

Possible Causes

• Leaking Hoses and/or Pipes between Components
• Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249) faulty
• Diverter Valve faulty
• Throttle Body dirty
• Vacuum leak

Possible Solutions

• Check Hoses and Pipes between Components
• Check / Replace Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249)
• Check / Replace Diverter Valve
• Check / Clean Throttle Body
  • Perform Throttle Body Alignment (TBA)
• Check for Vacuum leak(s) including PCV system

Special Notes

• Did anyone install an extra (wrong) dump valve?
• When found in the NAR 2.0T (BPY) check RVUTB: 01-09-03 or 2018919 for updated Crankcase Breather Valve
  • If the breather valve is faulty, full engine vacuum is typically found when removing the oil cap at idle.
• When found in the 3B B5/B5.5 Passat 1.8T, check the PCV "bleeder valve" for example part number 06B-103-245
  • One way to troubleshoot the problem is to pinch closed the vent hose under the coolant bottle, that attaches to the bleeder valve and see if the idle smooths out.

 

Have also ordered some silicone hose to do he N249 Bypass.

 

hope ya get it sorted mate

 

Done the N249 Bypass, Drove home with the window open today and could hear the boost quite loud outside, So I am thinking that it maybe the Turbo charge pipe that is leaking. And a bit of searching google tells me that the AUM charge pipe is prone to leaks.

Will be checking this 1st thing tomorrow.