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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought a 1.4 golf 2 months ago. Exhaust is kicking out a right load of white smoke and water from the exhaust. Just finished putting a new headgasket on today. I know i've done it right. But it's the same, now with the added bonus of it overheating. the only things i can think of are are warped head which i checked and it looked fine or a crack in one of the cylinder walls. if i do a leakdown test is there anyway i can pinpoint the exact problem so i know exactly what the hell is going on. I'm at my wits end with this now, i'm so running out of money to fix it, i'm thinking new engine. Any help would be so apprieciated. pleeeeeeeaaasssseee help.
 

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Well white smoke in the exhaust is usually coolant, which I would suggest is the Head Gasket... But if you say youve done that...

Has the car been losing coolant from the system?

Again, like youve said I would normally put it down to head gasket or in extreme cases a cracked cylinder wall. What sort of mileage has the engine done? Ive yet to hear of a cracked cylinder wall on these engine though, but you could be the first...

However if youve changed the head gasket and its now worse... I would say there is a problem there somewhere. Did you check the level of the gasket face with a straight edge? How did you prepare the block and head ready for the new gasket? And did you re-use the cylinder head bolts, and torque up 1. to the correct values, and 2. in the correct order?

The cylinder head bolts stretch when tightened, therefore reusing them can/will result in the head not being as tight fitting as it should, because if you retorque them, you may pass their yield point - meaning they wont stay tight but will loose strength, therefore loosening.

Because the overheating has started after replacing the head gasket, I would say its almost guaranteed it must be related to the HG. When the engine is running, you should also check the top radiator hose is getting warm, if not the thermostat could have an air block causing it not to open, but this is pretty unlikely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks veeduddude.

i did everything to the book, sanded head flat, sanded block flat, even put gasket sealer on there too, brand new head bolts used, tightened in the right order.

The water is bubbling hot out of the header tank after a few mins, it doesn't smoke until the engine starts to warm up. It's only done 73000.

I didn't check the gasket for straightness, it was brand new.

i'll check the radiator hose tomo, but i'll still have that white smoke.

will a leak down test tell me anything apart from there being a leak somewhere? i need to pinpoint this leak somehow so i know what to do next.

thanks again bud.
 

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did you get the head machine skimed to make sure its as flat as possible a when sanding down surface it is possible to make the surface uneven
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No i sanded it down with a sanding block so it would be as even as possible. Someone said the purge valve could be causing the water from the exhaust. Is this true?

I've found my cooling fan isn't kicking in when it should, i presume this could be the overheating problem. it was working fine before i removed the head gasket. I can't find any loose conections and the thermostat seems to be working fine. Now i am confused. please help.
 

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I accidentally overfilled mine with oil, and it blew out quite a bit of smoke as it got into the exhaust system, but luckily no damage was done. Have you over filled the oil by any chance? Thats about as good as I get with engines!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
danthe man

No it's definatelly not overfilled, i think that would cause black smoke, doesn't matter if you don't know much i still apprieciate your help. thanks mate.
 

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Although you used a block when sanding down the head, this could still have caused problems, as it is very easy to take off too much material in one spot and leave an uneven surface due to the head and block being aluminium on these engines. What sort of gasket sealer did you use on the head? Some sealers can be more of a hinderance on a HG than a help. Normally you should not need a sealer, but the only one I would recomend is:

http://www.vhtpaint.com/coppergasketcement.html

In terms of the fans not kicking in, check the fuses ontop of the battery, if they are in tact then the temp sensor may have become damaged when the head was removed. It has a green plastic surround and is situated on the front right of the head, check the connection to it is ok.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, i was thinking that, i was gonna get it skimmed, but the guy helping me said it looked fine, i did check it with a straight edge, it did look fine. I used some semi hardening gasket sealer, i was just trying to make sure it was sealed, i would have used what you said but i didn't know about it. I think i need to do a leakdown test, but they are so bloody expensive to buy, i feel like i'm throwing money away. If someone in manchester could do this for me, i'd treat them for it.

I've got a feeling it will be the temp sender too, if i bridge the connections together i think it will show me whats wrong. I will check the fuses on top of the battery.

Cheers again mate, you're a good un.
 

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Was the gasket sealer a spray or in a tube? Im just thinking if it came in a tube, by the time its been squeezed out by the pressure on the HG, it could have started blocking water / oil ways depending how thick it was put on. Could explain the overheating?

A leak down test will be the best way to know if it is the head gasket. A mobile mechanic may be cheaper than paying for the equipment yourself. Although if you're anything like me Id rather pay a bit more for tools/equipment and have them again if I need them!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cheers for all your help veedubdude.

Sealer was in a tube, i was really careful not to put too much on, and made sure i did'nt block any water ways etc. I've been thinking about the engine and i'm starting to think the womwn who sold me this had not put antifreeze in when we had the recent cold weather and has caused the cylinder wall to crack, i'm not sure how to confirm this. Do you? I've pretty much spent all i can afford now and am stuck with an unusable car. this was my special treat, wanted a mk 4 for ages, all i've treated myself to is a big bloody headache. The cars worth nothing like this, gutted. I would prefer the tool myself, like you. always handy to have those kinda things lying around. I definately need to do a leak down test. How will i confirm the block is cracked etc?
 
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