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has anybvody used lucas engine oil stabbilizier and if so how good is it
i use it in the 2mo to try and help it on start up, engine runs quieter on startup, but as for helping the long term life of the engine, who knows

just like the little demo toy the lcal shop has, if it does what it does on that toy in my engine, then im happy

a car friend of mine swears by it, oil levels have dropped on his cars alot and they run for a while
 
I solved these same problems with a thorough clean of the throttle body and using 15w40 oil... Still needs topping up occasionally but the engine is drastically smoother and I no longer get smoke from the exhaust under heavy load
 
I've only just bought my Golf about a month ago, i get the tapping when cold but it comes and goes when warmed up its really strange!

Never had a German car, always had Jap so i'm not too familiar with the engines, but i've cleaned all the air filter housing throttle body and butterfly, cleaned out breather pipe which was full of White shit due to oil mixing with condesation in the breather. None on filler cap though so probably not a gasket issue, keep checking though just to make sure and still no build up after a month of constant use. Didn't notice the breather pipe when buying the car because as i said, not too up on the engines but it's not something i'd usually i check when buying a car!

Still get the tapping, havn't tried different oil yet. Currently using 10w 40 Castrol.

Get some smoke from exhaust every now and again when under load, only one little cloud though then it stops.

ANY help would be much appreciated, as i am starting to wonder why i didn't just cough up the insurance for the 1.8T [:cool:]
 
Yeah i think it last had a service at 86k and it has 90k now, might just give it a service myself just for a piece of mind, see if it works, i've also been told to replace the breather housing? Is that the black box on the back of the block what the breather pipe goes into? The guy who i bought it off got it from his mum n it had 57k on then and he says its done it ever since but never had any problems, but it stalled on me twice last night which i think could be the throttle butterfly sticking.

I'd just like to know why oil is getting into the airbox housing from the breather pipe when i've thouroughly cleaned it. lol [:)]

Somtimes makes a nasty tappety rattle if the revs are low and i accelerate i.e when someone pulls into a junction and i slow down slightly then pull off in 3rd instead of 2nd or something. My other cars have never done that. [*-)]
 
Hi, I've got a VW GOLF MkIV 1.4S (98).

it's done 118000 miles now. In the past my car has had the stalling problem 3 times, first time VW dealers said the throttle body needed to be replaced and charged me £300+. (RIP OFF!)

Second time they said a clean might sort it, which it did (£70)

3rd time a clean sorted it too.

and recently it began happening again..

I found that the air filter housing (excuse my terminology) was covered in oil inside, looked down the throttle body and that was blacker than black.

Anyways I fixed the problem myself this time. took off the TB pretty easily and using white spirt cleaned it in no time. That stuff is perfect for cleaning. You really don't need wynns from halfords. just pour a little white spirit in, whilst the butterfly is closed and swirl is around. pour out then wipe away with a clean rag.

I know that there's oil coming up the breather pipe and into the air filter housing, causing a lot of oil wastage. I've been keeping an eye on the oil levels and within a month it goes down to minimum.

I've decided to install a pipercross induction kit, it keeps the breather seperate from the TB, so hopefully my car won't stall again.

The breather now feeds into a catch can, which then is connected to a pipercross oil breather filter.

this now reduces emissions and my car feels so much smoother.

I must say though, I have the VAG-COM equipment, but i've not used it.

Once the TB was re-installed, i started the car and felt that the revs would come down very verrry slowly at first. it was like my foot was still on the accelerator.. but then took the car on a drive for approx 30miles and that problem went away.

Now, the car starts immediately, no probs at all, no stalling and actually feels so smooth. I'm pretty confident that there isn't much need to actually adapt the TB.

Furthermore.. from what i saw from the VW invoices in the past, the engineer only performed the 'adapt' the second time around, it wasn't done any of the other times (else i'm assuming they'd mention it on the invoice!)

Also worth mentioning VW quoted me £106.00 to clean and adapt the TB this time round. I can't believe it!.. I'm so glad i did the job myself. saved money and actually enjoyed it!!

Good luck guys if you decide to do this yourself!..
 
from when i last posted on this thead the tapping completly gone away,think its generally what oil you use and the weather perhaps? it was really tappy in winter, its been fine for the past few months :)
 
Wow nearly £500 to clean the throttle body!!!! im shocked!!!!!

The breather pipe 'mayo' happens on mine too. NOt sure why it does it but the little black box is called a oil seperator (seems to do the job well...NOT!) I have now disconnected it and pushed it in somewhere behind the airbox to stop it venting back through the air intake. Seems to do the job well, apart from a bit smell when stationary, but i bet it will stop the TB clogging up and sticking.
 
I have solved this problem personally between my nephew and myself. i have done nearly the whole lot from the pick-up pipe, the oil pump, the oil filter, both of the sensors pressure and oil level/temperature sensor. Brand new 5w-30 oil and couldn't work out what was still wrong with it as it kept flashing. when i drove for about a mile and the engine got warm it started getting noisy tappets, i put it on a pressure gauge on it and it gave me a reading of 2 bar/ 30 P.S.I at 2000 revs so i decided to take off the rocker cover and have a look in there. i did notice that on dismantling the head that there looked to be a bit of a leak of oil on the front left hand side of the engine above the exhaust manifold.

before you do the next step make sure the engine is timed up correctly then make a marking on the cogs and the part of the engine that you are taking off. cam shaft/ bottom end shaft.

you must take off the timing belt that runs up the side of the engine from bottom end to top where cam shaft is. making sure that you do not move the engine out of timing. you will need to relase the belt tensioner and the belt should just slip off.

after unscrewing all of the 5mm allen key bolts out of the head i found that the top felt really sealed down still so i used a small pri-bar to leaver it off but as a warning be careful if you use this approch as it could end up expensive.

after revealing the inside of the cam shaft head to see the rockers i had noticed that there were little holes in the head leading up to all 3 bearings holding the cams, they had next to no sealant on them so we cleaned off the old sealant and where the old gasket sealant was, we put fresh on it, (make sure you do not block any of the oil holes though that feed the 3 cam bearings) as that will block the pressure through the lines.

fit it all back together as you have taken it off and bang it should work with no oil light if it does come back on flahing then its obviously not what had fixed mine so you may want to start at the pick-up pipe as i had been told that it could have been that first, plus they are quite cheap to buy from VW.

GOODLUCK everyone hope this helps
 
hi every1 i know i said i fixed the oil problem last time but i didn't but it gave me a clever idea if anybody is still having problems with the oil light i have found the solution to the problem on my golf 1.4 16v i had took the cam shaft cover off quite a few times but never actually inspected the cams as i was struggling to undo the timing cog bolts but i pinned the camshaft carrier down on the side and tried rattling the cams and there was quite alot of movement in both of the cams so i have changed the camshaft carriersealed it up and for the first 30 miles the light came on about 15 times on and off but i left it over night and now the oil pressure is fine. [<:eek:)][<:eek:)] i have now covered 430 miles since i fixed it touch wood.

Hope this helps
 
i also have a tapping noise from engine 1.4 16 valve, it seems to happen when the engine gets warm, ive had new tappets, new oil pump, filter, new pulleys and a new cam tensioner, and the engine managemant light is still on and tapping noise still occurs when the engine gets warm, any suggestions please?
 
The tapping isn't a concern. Give the engine 15 or so seconds on start up before setting off to let the oil circulate, you'll notice it goes abit quiter once circulation begins. I've owned my 1998 1.4s since 2015 and had the tappets done as soon as purchasing. It is now on 112k miles (79k when I purchased). Over the years, the one significant change I made was to change from castrol magnatec 10w 40 (it didn't like that oil, burned lots of it) to Castrol edge 5w 40 FST for the past 4 years and guess what.. Hasn't burnt a drop of oil. I don't think 15w is the solution, it's too thick. Use a fst oil on these engines, the castrol edge has done wonders for it. Hope this helps.
 
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